In 1980 the Bronco went from a straight Dana 44 front axle to what Ford calls the Twin Traction Beam front suspension. The TTB system is Ford's '80-'96 version of an independent front suspension. Mechanically, the TTB axle is similar to a straight axle. However, it uses a hinge in the middle. Think of a totally open pair of scissors and you have the idea. The inboard ends of the housings are attached to a frame-mounted crossmember, while the outboard ends support the steering knuckle and are attached to the frame through the springs and radius arms.
Our assignment was to learn all we could about Ford's Twin Traction Beam suspensions at fullsize truck specialist PG Series 4x4 in El Cajon, California. With the help of our connections at PG and at Tuff Country Suspensions and an '89 Ford Bronco, we gathered as many TTB installation tips as our greasy hands could grab.
Just a day after completing the lift install, we were out testing the capabilities and characteristics of the new suspension. With new 33-inch Mickey Thompson Baja Claws on M/T 16x10 Classic II wheels, the Bronco really stands out. For the first impressions see the sidebar "Night and Day Differences."
 The distinctive front TTB...  The distinctive front TTB axle looks somewhat intimidating. The job is practically the same as any normal suspension install. Start by removing the shocks, sway bar links, and coil springs by letting the axle hang by some ratchet straps as shown below. Support the axle underneath the driveshaft to the passenger side of the differential. |  Tony, our PG Series installer,...  Tony, our PG Series installer, shared a couple of TTB tricks. One was to use a ratchet strap to tie up and secure (and later to release) both sides of the axle at the hub. Bolt one side of the strap's hooks to the wheel lug and attach the other end hook through the top of the coil bucket. |  You can now remove the power...  You can now remove the power steering line bracket. Tony taught us when reinstalling the bracket to put a tube spacer between the body and the tubes for clearance. This way the kit's bracketry won't damage the power steering lines. When you're through removing the power steering line bracket, you can remove the coil seats. |
 How old and used your Bronco...  How old and used your Bronco is will determine how much force will be needed to loosen and remove all of the other existing suspension components. Our Bronco was used a lot so we had to loosen the front radius arm bolts with a torch. To remove the radius arms you will need to displace the fuel lines and fuel filter that run down the frame close to the radius arm bolts so that you can access them. Remove the rear radius arm brackets and then the radius arms. Disconnect the tie rod at this time. |  Last to come off are the I-beam...  Last to come off are the I-beam pivot bolts. Once those are removed you can--one side at a time--extend the ratchet straps holding the axle so that the axle is at full droop. This may seem kind of scary because the twin beams drop quite far. |  Install the axle pivot drop...  Install the axle pivot drop bracket first. Watch closely where the drill bit is pointed and how far it drills through. Watch for the oil pan sump that is located directly behind where the bolt is required to go. The bolts will fit but you may have to be creative in doing so. Once you've installed the drop bracket you can attach the power steering line. Tony's tip is to use a metal shock insert (usually good for nothing, right?) as a spacer and place a longer bolt through the spacer and the power steering line bracket. |
 Working down the driver-side...  Working down the driver-side framerail is difficult because all the electrical and fuel lines run down that side of the frame. Remove the crossmember bolt at the frame to access the area where the rear radius arm bracket will go. To install the rear radius arm brackets mark, drill, and tap holes in the frame so that you can bolt up the new brackets, and then attach them to the frame. |  Install the front axle to...  Install the front axle to the front axle pivot bracket using the cam bolt provided. Coerce the second cam bolt into the rear part of the front axle with a rubber mallet. Once that's complete you can pull the pitman arm and install the new drop pitman arm. |  Radius arms can now be installed...  Radius arms can now be installed by first installing the bushings. Bolt the radius arms to the axlehousing pivot bolts. The sway bar brackets at the coil bucket fit snug and may need a little persuasion from a friendly grinder. Krylon the coil tower (if you like the pretty stuff) and install the sway bar drop brackets. |
 Wiggle the coils into the...  Wiggle the coils into the bottom coil bucket and tighten the coil bucket bracket bolts. At this time, you want to check that all of the new bolts are torqued to the Tuff Country kit's specifications. Check the suspension components to verify that all the bolts are tight and that metal components don't rub in places that they are not supposed to. |  The rear installation is cake....  The rear installation is cake. Support the axle and remove the leaf springs. Bolt on the new leaf pack. Insert the provided shims between the axle pad and leaf pack. Torque down the U-bolts and you are all set. Throw on new wheels and tires, set it on the ground, and you are ready to test the new kit. | |