1989 Ford Bronco Suspension - 4-Wheel and Off-Road Magazine

In 1980 the Bronco went from a straight Dana 44 front axle to what Ford calls the Twin Traction Beam front suspension. The TTB system is Ford's '80-'96 version of an independent front suspension. Mechanically, the TTB axle is similar to a straight axle. However, it uses a hinge in the middle. Think of a totally open pair of scissors and you have the idea. The inboard ends of the housings are attached to a frame-mounted crossmember, while the outboard ends support the steering knuckle and are attached to the frame through the springs and radius arms.

Our assignment was to learn all we could about Ford's Twin Traction Beam suspensions at fullsize truck specialist PG Series 4x4 in El Cajon, California. With the help of our connections at PG and at Tuff Country Suspensions and an '89 Ford Bronco, we gathered as many TTB installation tips as our greasy hands could grab.

Just a day after completing the lift install, we were out testing the capabilities and characteristics of the new suspension. With new 33-inch Mickey Thompson Baja Claws on M/T 16x10 Classic II wheels, the Bronco really stands out. For the first impressions see the sidebar "Night and Day Differences."

The distinctive front TTB axle looks somewhat intimidating. The job is practically the same as any normal suspension install. Start by removing the shocks, sway bar links, and coil springs by letting the axle hang by some ratchet straps as shown below. Support the axle underneath the driveshaft to the passenger side of the differential.
The distinctive front TTB axle looks somewhat intimidating. The job is practically the sam
Tony, our PG Series installer, shared a couple of TTB tricks. One was to use a ratchet strap to tie up and secure (and later to release) both sides of the axle at the hub. Bolt one side of the strap's hooks to the wheel lug and attach the other end hook through the top of the coil bucket.
Tony, our PG Series installer, shared a couple of TTB tricks. One was to use a ratchet str
You can now remove the power steering line bracket. Tony taught us when reinstalling the bracket to put a tube spacer between the body and the tubes for clearance. This way the kit's bracketry won't damage the power steering lines. When you're through removing the power steering line bracket, you can remove the coil seats.
You can now remove the power steering line bracket. Tony taught us when reinstalling the b

How old and used your Bronco is will determine how much force will be needed to loosen and remove all of the other existing suspension components. Our Bronco was used a lot so we had to loosen the front radius arm bolts with a torch. To remove the radius arms you will need to displace the fuel lines and fuel filter that run down the frame close to the radius arm bolts so that you can access them. Remove the rear radius arm brackets and then the radius arms. Disconnect the tie rod at this time.
How old and used your Bronco is will determine how much force will be needed to loosen and
Last to come off are the I-beam pivot bolts. Once those are removed you can--one side at a time--extend the ratchet straps holding the axle so that the axle is at full droop. This may seem kind of scary because the twin beams drop quite far.
Last to come off are the I-beam pivot bolts. Once those are removed you can--one side at a
Install the axle pivot drop bracket first. Watch closely where the drill bit is pointed and how far it drills through. Watch for the oil pan sump that is located directly behind where the bolt is required to go. The bolts will fit but you may have to be creative in doing so. Once you've installed the drop bracket you can attach the power steering line. Tony's tip is to use a metal shock insert (usually good for nothing, right?) as a spacer and place a longer bolt through the spacer and the power steering line bracket.
Install the axle pivot drop bracket first. Watch closely where the drill bit is pointed an

Working down the driver-side framerail is difficult because all the electrical and fuel lines run down that side of the frame. Remove the crossmember bolt at the frame to access the area where the rear radius arm bracket will go. To install the rear radius arm brackets mark, drill, and tap holes in the frame so that you can bolt up the new brackets, and then attach them to the frame.
Working down the driver-side framerail is difficult because all the electrical and fuel li
Install the front axle to the front axle pivot bracket using the cam bolt provided. Coerce the second cam bolt into the rear part of the front axle with a rubber mallet. Once that's complete you can pull the pitman arm and install the new drop pitman arm.
Install the front axle to the front axle pivot bracket using the cam bolt provided. Coerce
Radius arms can now be installed by first installing the bushings. Bolt the radius arms to the axlehousing pivot bolts. The sway bar brackets at the coil bucket fit snug and may need a little persuasion from a friendly grinder. Krylon the coil tower (if you like the pretty stuff) and install the sway bar drop brackets.
Radius arms can now be installed by first installing the bushings. Bolt the radius arms to

Wiggle the coils into the bottom coil bucket and tighten the coil bucket bracket bolts. At this time, you want to check that all of the new bolts are torqued to the Tuff Country kit's specifications. Check the suspension components to verify that all the bolts are tight and that metal components don't rub in places that they are not supposed to.
Wiggle the coils into the bottom coil bucket and tighten the coil bucket bracket bolts. At
The rear installation is cake. Support the axle and remove the leaf springs. Bolt on the new leaf pack. Insert the provided shims between the axle pad and leaf pack. Torque down the U-bolts and you are all set. Throw on new wheels and tires, set it on the ground, and you are ready to test the new kit.
The rear installation is cake. Support the axle and remove the leaf springs. Bolt on the n

Night and Day Differences
Perceptions on the Newly Installed LiftSome argue that Ford never properly designed the TTB suspension. As a result, the fullsize Bronco has a loose, drastic body roll type of feeling. Riding in these rigs with the stock suspension makes you feel like you've been riding the waves all day. Tuff Country's Twin Traction Beam 4-inch system not only alleviated the excessive body roll but provided better articulation, more ground clearance, and a sharper turning radius. The truck feels drastically safer. Because of the soft polyurethane bushings, the suspension has surprisingly little suspension-related noise like annoying squeaking or creaking, and the brackets looked beefy and structurally safe. Here are a few more observations:

Tuff Country's radius arms work well because they employ rear pivot bushings that allow them to rotate throughout the motion of the suspension cycle. Because the arm is inside the bushing sleeve rather than mounted flush to the stock bracket, the suspension cycles farther and has less bushing wear. The design works with the bushing rather than against it. Additionally, the Tuff Country arms are 15 inches longer than stock and are made from reinforced steel tubing, which is a great deal stronger than the stock arms.

A rear leaf pack heightens and stiffens the rear. This is both good and bad. If the rear springs are too high, they distribute the weight to the front, causing the front end to bear more of the brunt of the vehicle's weight. This may prematurely wear front suspension components like the coils and the shocks. The good part is that the truck feels stiffer and sturdier, thus making the truck feel sure-footed on and off road.

The lift gives you the added benefits of having better clearance and better articulation without making the truck feel top heavy. The center of gravity remains stable and weight distribution top to bottom feels normal.

Note that you may want to modify your steering stops if aggressively treaded tires rub on the radius arms.

Some minor exhaust relocation may be needed if your exhaust comes in contact with your springs. Generally the rule is that while bolt-on kits are conveniently packaged and priced, they are not custom fabbed for your particular vehicle. Thus, the lift may require working out the fitment quirks of your kit.