The arid desert landscape may look foreboding to first-time visitors, but Johnson Valley is a recreational Mecca and one of California's most frequented off-road vehicle destinations. There aren't very many designated OHV areas left in America that offer the diverse terrain that can be found here. The Hammer Trails, located in the Hartwell Hills of Johnson Valley, are world famous and as extreme as trails get. The sandy washes, dry lakebeds, and vast stretches of desolate high-speed trails attract thousands of recreational enthusiasts each weekend. This area has been enjoyed by millions over the past few decades. It's disheartening that parts of this recreational haven may soon be closed to the public.
Rock buggies are common on...
Rock buggies are common on the Hammers. These rigs are well suited for these trails because there's not a whole lot of sheetmetal and body panel that can be ripped off by the jagged rock squeezes. Then again, if ripping the sheetmetal off a rig is your thing, then this is a great place to go. Just make sure you clean up after yourself.
Extreme Four-Wheeling
It's not uncommon to hear the geography of Johnson Valley described as a lunar landscape. As harsh as that sounds, it's not that far from reality. But it only takes a visit or two and an overnight stay to understand its natural diversity in off-road recreation and to appreciate its beauty. The Johnson Valley OHV area is just under 200,000 acres in size and sits between the communities of Apple Valley and Lucerne Valley to the north and Yucca Valley to the south. The Hammer Trails, located within this OHV area, are the premier destination for extreme rockcrawling. It would have been hard to ignore the extensive media coverage given to these trails over the past 20 years, and it would be even harder to ignore the significant role they have played in competitive and recreational rockcrawling.
Perhaps the largest event ever for the valley was this year's King of the Hammers Race, which turned out to be a major, industry-wide event. The top names in competitive rockcrawling as well as racers from other forms of racing competed for top honors. The Hammers consist of about 16 mapped trails, but it's hard to estimate how many actual trails lie within and around the Hartwell Hills. This expansive range is filled with canyons and washes that are crisscrossed with hundreds of offshooting trails. The difficulty level of the trails range from expert to novice. Body damage and breakage are normal, so it's always best to carry tools and spare parts. We're planning a feature on the event for next month.
 Every year a number of competitive...  Every year a number of competitive motorsports events are held in this OHV area. The area is the perfect location for rockcrawling events, but racing competitions include CORE, Mojave Desert Racing (MDR), and Jeep Speed. |  Night-wheeling the Hammers...  Night-wheeling the Hammers brings a whole new meaning to the word extreme. Wheeling trails that are challenging in broad daylight are even tougher when the driver has limited visibility at night. This is something everyone should try at least once. |  The rocky notches of these...  The rocky notches of these trails always present an exciting challenge to drivers. In some places it takes numerous attempts to make it up and over a tight squeeze. The key to success is patience--and low-gear torque. When a driver starts spinning the tires and hopping, parts start snapping. |
The Geography
If there was ever a place created to test extreme vehicles, Johnson Valley is it. The valley is the western border of the Mojave Desert and skirts up the eastern base of the San Bernardino Mountains. The craggy mountain trails vary in geology. The rocks are mostly igneous, metamorphic, and sedimentary. Some trails are as easy as a cobblestone road. Others are tight notches lined with massive jagged boulders.
Rock squeezes will easily rip a rig apart when it attempts to pass. Some of the trails can be driven in 4x4s with 33-inch-tall tires, but most require tire sizes 35 inches and up. Rock buggies and rigs with 40-inch tires, lockers, skidplates, and body armor are the norm. Of course, smaller tires heighten the challenge.
The expansive OHV area gives motorcycles, ATVs, and sand buggies a great place to play. Unlike Moab, there's really no death-defying factor, but the trails can be dangerous due to weather. Summer temps hover around 120 degrees for weeks; winters can be freezing with snow and severe storms.
 This is the typical geological...  This is the typical geological makeup of most of the trails. The washes that make up the trails usually lead up to the peaks of the hills. The maze of giant boulders vary in difficulty level. Some trails are far more difficult than others, but the majority of them require lockers, body armor, lifts, and tall tires. |  The summits of Hartwell Hills...  The summits of Hartwell Hills reach about 4,600 feet. From the highest trails it is not uncommon on a clear day to see 100 miles. Upper Bender Trail offers phenomenal views to the north of the Valley. Upper Bender is a relatively new trail, and not many rigs have made it up to the top. Looking at this narrow passage you can see why. |  The weather in Johnson Valley...  The weather in Johnson Valley and the surrounding hills is extreme. Most of the year it's roasting, with daily temperatures climbing well over 100 degrees. In winter there usually isn't this much snow on the ground, but last December a freak storm blanketed the valley with 2 feet of snow. The best times to visit are November through early March. |
Colorful History
It wasn't until the 1850s that Johnson Valley was explored and mapped. In the 1860s, after gold was discovered in the San Bernardino Mountains to the west, prospectors filtered into Johnson Valley below in search of additional claims. There is perhaps a wild and woolly tale to go along with every part of the Mojave Desert, and this area is no exception. In the 1950s the valley saw a significant rise in population. The government auctioned off 5-acre homestead parcels of land for around $500. The only requirement was to build a 400-square-foot cabin. Hundreds of these cabins were built, and a number of these abandoned homesteads can still be seen along Highway 247.
The Battle
Recreation in Johnson Valley is in serious jeopardy. As much as we admire the U.S. Marine Corps, we disagree with their proposal to take over most of the valley for expanded training grounds. At stake is the entire OHV area from Soggy Dry Lake at Bessemer Mine Road to the north all the way down to Boone Road and Means Dry Lake to the south. This land acquisition includes our beloved Hammer Trails. As four-wheel enthusiasts, we can make a difference by taking action and voicing our opinions. The Marines are actually looking to hear from us to see how many people use this area for recreation.
Voice Your Concern
Generations of families have enjoyed Johnson Valley. On any given weekend, as the sun sets over Means Lake and Soggy Dry Lake, hundreds of four-wheelers and campers settle in for the night. From a distance, the lakebeds look like small cities. Night wheeling is big at the Hammer Trails, it ups the challenge. We're not quite sure what will become of this area, but we do know that anyone interested in continued recreation here must get involved in the struggle to keep it open for public recreation.
 JV is a great place to hold...  JV is a great place to hold club runs, due to the unlimited camping possibilities and abundant trails. Just remember, pack out what you pack in and leave the area cleaner than you found it. Every year the North American XJ Association holds an annual weekend run at the Hammers, and some trick XJs show up from around the country. |  Recently we caught Rick Mooneyham...  Recently we caught Rick Mooneyham out testing his new buggy in preparation for King of the Hammers. In 2008, Rick took Third Place in KOH, which was very impressive given the talent of all the racers. Occasionally you will see OEM and aftermarket manufacturers at the Hammers testing new vehicles and products. It's a great time to get those spy shots. |  The trails are tough at the...  The trails are tough at the Hammers, and in some of the easiest sections, things can still go wrong. Whether it's a flat tire, a broken U-joint, a busted driveshaft, or a hitchhiking rock, drivers should always be prepared for the worst. But that's also part of the fun--sharpening one's trail repair skills. Just make sure you pull off to the side of the trail so others can pass. |
The Hammer Trails
After Shock
Backdoor
Big Johnson
Bender Alley
Claw Hammer
FOH
Hell's Gate
Highway 19
Highway 20
Jack Hammer
Outer Limits
Resolution
Sledge Hammer
Sunbonnet Pass
Tack Hammer
Wrecking Ball
Get Involved
For information about voicing your concern and support for Johnson Valley, please visit these websites.
CORVA, www.corva.org
BlueRibbon Coalition, www.sharetrails.org
National Off-Road Association (NORA), www.nora-usa.com
Off-Road Business Association (ORBA), www.orba.biz
Tread Lightly, www.treadlightly.org