Rubbing RubberI recently bought a '92 Chevy 11/42-ton pickup. It came with a 3-inch body lift. The 33x12.50 tires on 12-inch-wide wheels hit the front bumper whenever I turn hard. Would it be better for me to do away with the body lift and use a suspension lift, or would it be better to keep the body lift and use a smaller lift in addition? I like the height of the truck. I just want it high enough so the tires don't hit the bumper.Name withheldby e-mail
To clear 33x12.50s on an '88-'98 Chevy truck, you need a 3- to 4-inch lift. Trimming or removing the valence will also be necessary. Twelve-inch-wide wheels will cause the tires to rub to the point that the bumper will also need to be trimmed. Wide wheels also stress the steering and suspension components along with the wheel bearings, and they cause poor handling and can make the vehicle wander on the road.
Generally, the width of the wheels you choose to use on any vehicle should be within an inch of the tread width of the tires. Doing this keeps the wheel protected and helps keep the tire on the bead. This can also keep component wear to a minimum. In your case the tire has about a 9-inch tread width. This would mean you should use 8- to 10-inch-wide wheels. Backspacing is also important, but options are limited unless you purchase custom-built wheels. The best way to go would be to switch to a narrower wheel. If you really like the 12-inch wheels, you could trim the bumper for clearance. Adding more lift will give the wheelwells an empty appearance.
SR4 = Weak?I recently bought an '81 CJ-5 with a Chevy 350 engine conversion. It had the original radiator, and I changed it to the 304 radiator. It also had the stock SR4 four-speed transmission and the Dana 300 transfer case. I believe the transfer case is strong enough for the stock 350, but I had to take the transmission out to have Second gear replaced because it kept popping out of gear. I had all the bearings and synchronizer rings replaced as well.
I'm not an aggressive driver by any means, but sometimes I like to take my Jeep on easy to moderate trails at low speeds. Does this daily driver and part-time off-roader have a sufficient enough transmission, or is this my vehicle's weak link?
One other question I have is about leaking clutch fluid. I can't find the origin. It leaks enough to require filling the clutch master cylinder every few days. Is there an infamous leaking spot from this type of hydraulic clutch system?Drew PettySevierville, TN
The SR4 transmissions were used in '80-'81 Jeeps and were used behind the 258 engine as well as the GM four-cylinder engines. There are three different production runs of this transmission. If you're looking for parts, you'll need the tag number, which can be found on a stamped metal tag attached to the transmission cover. If the tag is stamped with 3239675 or 5360956, the transmission is from Group 1. If it's stamped with 5360957, it's from Group 2.
The SR4 is adapted to a Chevy V-8 with just a bellhousing, and the same bellhousing will work with the T4, T5, and T176 transmissions. The problem is that these transmissions, including the SR4, are barely adequate for use with a Chevy V-8. It may be better to swap in a truck-type transmission-such as a T18, SM420, or SM 465-that has superior strength and a low First gear.
Is your transmission the weak link? Yes, but it's in line with the AMC 20 rearend and the front Dana 30s axleshafts.
The Dana 300 transfer case was used in '80-'86 Jeeps. This 'case is considered a great improvement over the Dana 20 and holds up well under V-8 power. The 300 has a 2.61 low range; the Dana 20 has 2.03.