Read the "Structure" sidebar before you begin trimming the rear. The plan here is to cut as much as needed, while maintaining the wheelwell and quarter-panel structure. Use a cutting wheel to trim the rear flap of the wheelwell. Trim the front edge to allow 11/42 inch of metal for you to fold back onto the wheelwell. Working with the remaining front edge, gently fold the front edge back to overlap over the wheelwell. We've seen this done with patient and concise hammering, but by using a piece of wood such as a wooden baseball bat, you can use a backward motion to push the front lip over the well. If you are reusing your stock rear flares, remember to leave a mounting point for the flare. We chose to cut only up to the body line so that we could attach the stock flare once we shortened it.
Ting-Ting, Skid-Skid, RrrripGood Things, Bad Things, and 35s
To avoid these sounds on the trail, we tested what the tires came in contact with. One thing you should think about before preparing your rig for the rigors of larger tires is its extreme articulation. After trimming, you'll need to clear the inside of the wheelwells of any tire-unfriendly components. In the front, the brake-line brackets need to be relocated close to the shock, and the body seams that like to mince the meats can be carefully coerced flat away from the outside of the wheelwell. If you see too much flex in the rear, you can run a larger bumpstop. Keep in mind that inevitably you'll have to legalize the project by attaching flares if you plan on any street driving, so check your state regulations.
Overall, here are the improvements and compromises we've had to come to terms with:Advantages: 1 inch of ground clearance. Larger-diameter tires will fit in larger-diameter spaces. With the right wheel backspacing the 35s won't rub on control arms while under general off-road steering conditions, except when close tosteering lock on both sides.
Compromises: Fender clearance issues. Larger cost for tires. Component wear (especially on brakes and steering). Less uptravel (you'll sacrifice 1-2 inches depending on your particular suspension system). No going back to stock.
Fender Finale
This is the part of the story where we have to tell you that after trimming the fenders, testing suspension cycle, moving brake lines, cutting the front bumper, and receiving more advice from people who have already done it, we wanted to try something a little more detailed. This is a little more time consuming, but hopefully worth it
We hear that the best way to finish off the front fender is to stretch the wheelwell opening and wrap the edge around a back support. The back support will function not only as a structure to strengthen the front fender, but it will also be used to coerce the metal into a neatly folded edge. You'll definitely need a gentle hand, welding finesse, more body tools, and some technical bodywork expertise. Or a trip to the body shop.
At the rear, have a body expert trim at the quarter-panel's seam, then relocate the wheelwell inner up, then weld and seal the body panel to the wheelwell. Primer and paint to make it look like new.
Structure
Cherokee chassis structure is formed from pseudo framerails made of sheetmetal under the vehicle. Rear quarter-panels are uniquely designed for dual duty to provide added structural integrity to the body. When cutting past the wheelwell/body panel seam, this intentional structure is weakened. Cutting past the wheelwell/body panel seam should only occur when a reinforced re-seaming can replace the original seam.