Running narrow trails and having oversized tires that kick up every passing stone is hard on your truck's paint job. What sounds like fingernails scraping a blackboard as you squeeze through some brush may be tough on your ears, but its even worse on your paint.
And that loud crack you hear when a rock is hurled from your tire, smacks your paint, and proceeds into a low-earth orbit isn't exactly good for your truck's color either. While not much short of staying off the trails can be done to prevent this kind of damage, there are ways to make your paint less susceptible to it. There are also ways to fix the damage if it does occur, without having to repaint the whole truck. Check out the sidebars below for some tips on how to keep your rig's exterior in shape.
Perhaps the ultimate in off-road paint is the rattle can. If you own a beater and are looking for a low-buck paint job, this could be the way to go. However, if you own a fullsize, the cost of spray paint will quickly add up. One alternative is a budget paint shop such as Earl Scheib. Most of these shops manufacture their own paint, which allows them to keep costs down compared to other paint shops. | 
Color is very important for off-road vehicles. Dark colors, such as this deep-blue metallic, show scratches and chips worse than lighter, solid colors do. Some like to use clearcoats because if the scratch is superficial the clearcoat gets scratched rather than the paint. Others don't like to use them because scratches tend to show worse and are harder to get rid of. |
Chip Fix
OK, those big meats are cool, but they throw every rock they can get their hands on at your paint job. Don't ignore those chips. They make easy entrances for moisture, which causes unwanted rust. Luckily, this fix is an easy one.
First, use a good wax-and-grease remover to strip away any grime and old wax buildup around the chips. | 
Use a fiberglass-tipped Prep Pen to clean rust and dirt out of the chips. Don't sand down the edges--leave them to help the paint build up inside the chips. This provides for a better bond between the old paint and the touch-up paint and keeps the repair area small so it is less noticeable. |
Clean the area again and then apply the touch-up paint a little at a time. Don't try to fill the area with one big glob--it will shrink as it dries. Build up the area slowly until all chips are filled and their edges sealed. Small touch-up quantities of clearcoat are also sold and can be used if your vehicle has a clearcoat. Wait a week and then rewax the area where the remover was used. | |
Scratch Science
If you take your vehicle off road you are going to get scratches. Besides being ugly, scratches give moisture easy access to metal, causing rust. Fixing scratches is a little more involved than fixing a paint chip.
If clearcoat scratches are shallow enough, a good wax will usually fill them in. You can also try using some rubbing compound. If none of those steps work, it's time for wet sanding. Use 2,000-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and a block. Sand with a back-and-forth motion rather than a circular one, and use plenty of water and patience. | 
Clean the vehicle again and use a micro-polishing compound such as 3M Imperial Microfinishing Compound Paste. This will bring back the clearcoat's glossy finish. Finish it off with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Fine-Cut Cleaner to help remove any leftover rubbing-compound scratches. |
Finish the job by laying down a good coat of quality wax and then applying a good sealer such as Race Glaze Polish and Sealant. This will provide a very durable and scratch-resistant topcoat, which will help to minimize trail-brush scratches in the future. | |