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Bronco Bolt-On Suspension

James Duff Goes Long Travel
By Craig Perronne
Photography by Craig Perronne
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Here is the stock front suspension before surgery. The main travel-limiting factors are the puny shocks, old-school coils, and short radius arms. The Duff kit changes all this.

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The original factory piece is used to attach the head unit to the axle. We also opted to replace all of our wasted bushings with new polyurethane units from James Duff.

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The rears of the radius arms attach to the frame using a beefy mount and massive rod end that allows for even more flex. We chose to weld the mounts to save time, but they can be bolted to the frame.

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We were so excited about the new radius arms that we had to put them on first. They are 11 inches longer than the stock arms and are ultra-stout with a 3/8-inch-thick wall. The aft end has a solid rod that has been machined to accept a giant rod end. Ours were prototypes (as was the rest of the kit) that were cut and welded to make the bend for tire clearance. Future arms will be bent with a heavy-duty bender, eliminating the cut and weld process.

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The new radius arms are actually a two-piece design with the arms sliding into a head unit that attaches to the axle with C-bushings. By using two bushings at the front of the radius arms, the two-piece design helps to eliminate some of the binding of the stock radius arms during articulation, thus giving extra flex.

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Our original 3-inch lift coils were replaced with new ones from James Duff. The new coils supply 3-1/2 inches of lift, but are also taller than the originals because they are softer and flexier.

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To make room for the James Duff Stage II shock hoops, the old factory shock mounts have to come off. We found the best technique was to use a torch, but a grinder can be used.

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We were even able to coax ORU assistant manager Steve Deitsch out of his air-conditioned office to give us a hand putting shocks on, and he was more than happy to help. The front uses two super-long, 15-inch-travel James Duff 70/30 Auto Adjust shocks per corner to give a massive increase in articulation.

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A track bar drop bracket is a necessity. The James Duff bracket bolts onto the original bracket so it is a good idea to check the condition of the original. Ours needed a few welds and we then added a small bead to the sides and top of the new bracket for safety.

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Once we finished the front, we shifted our attention to the rear of the Bronco. Short shocks and a bad traction bar design seriously limited articulation out back.

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The first pieces to go on the back were the new upper shock mounts. Our Bronco already had a 2-inch body lift so only slight trimming of the body seam was necessary. Once again we welded the piece, but it can bolt on.

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To finish off the rear, we used 11-leaf, 3-1/2-inch lift springs from James Duff, which are made to give lots of articulation and handle some extra weight. In this finished shot, you can also see how the 12-inch-travel 70/30 Auto Adjust shocks are positioned. The only pieces that actually need to be welded on are the lower shock mounts.

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On our first testdrive of the Bronco we experienced some bumpsteer. A dropped Pitman arm solved this problem. James Duff doesn’t include them in the kits because of so many variations (power steering conversions, tie-rod over conversions, and so on), but an easy way to tell if you need one is if your track bar isn’t parallel with your drag link.

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The last step was to install a set of new James Duff Urethane fender flares. Our original ones were hard fiberglass units that were destroyed from trail usage. The urethane units are flexible and will take more of a beating. We suspect with this much backspacing and articulation that we might have to trim the rear fenders all the way up to body line.


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