The easiest thing to do would be to take the fuel line coming out of the fuel tank and splice an inline pump to push fuel up to the engine. Then add a return line from the engine back to the fuel tank to return unused fuel. This type of fuel system works for some people but is not what we'd recommend for trouble-free operation.
Option two is to take the existing fuel-pump pickup out of the fuel tank and modify it to hang an in-tank electric fuel pump and sock filter assembly in the fuel. We use this type of arrangement on our EFI's K5 to feed a large frame-mounted pump, but for normal applications a pump like this from any multiport fuel-injected car would be fine. Just make sure the pump's pre-filter sits on the bottom of the tank.
The third and best option would be to buy or build a fuel tank that has been developed for use with EFI engines and either has an in-tank baffle to form a fuel sump, or has an all-in-one fuel pump/pickup/sump/fuel level sending unit that drops into the tank from the top.
Swamp Buggy Repair
My father and I just put our rebuilt carburetor back on our swamp buggy, so I was testdriving it around the yard and the hydraulic clutch sprung a leak. Thankfully there was a tree to use as a brake. Swamp buggies usually don't have brakes, due to all the mud action. I got a new hydraulic clutch line, but if this happens out in the swamp, is there an on-the-spot quick fix I can do to get me back to the truck and trailer?Joshua W. MaxwellNaples, Florida
What kind of transmission are you using? Couldn't you just shift into First gear with the engine off, fire up the engine and drive, and then kill the ignition when you need to stop. It's possible that swamp buggies have really high gearing that makes this type of driving difficult to control, but that is how we drive a vehicle when we can't disengage the clutch. Of course the easier solution may be to just route the hydraulic line inside a protective sheath so that is doesn't spring a leak again.
When to Say No to 4-Lo
In the Aug. '03 issue, you state, "Sand guys wouldn't touch a 4:1 low-range transfer case." Can you explain this statement? I'm considering purchasing a Jeep Rubicon and the main trails that I use are sand with steep grades. Any insight that you can provide would be greatly appreciated.Rick Oblak4wheeloffroad.com
The reason you wouldn't want a 4:1 low range in the sand is because your engine probably won't make enough power in high range to get you through everything without bogging down. So naturally you would shift into low range-in this case a 4:1 ratio-to increase the amount of power available to turn the tires by four times. The downside is this increase in power comes with an equal reduction in the amount of wheel speed the Jeep can produce. It's this reduction in wheel speed that makes it difficult to propel yourself up steep sand dunes.
We've tested a manual transmission version of the Jeep Rubicon in the sand and found that you can improve performance by using Third gear in the transmission with the transfer case in low range. But if you have to shift, each gear change brings a major drop in engine rpm that will again result in major losses in wheel speed. An automatic transmission should reduce the negative effects of each gear change, but it will not mask them completely.
Lockers in Snow
I am getting conflicting advice regarding lockers for my '84 Toyota 4x4. I drive a lot in the snow during the winter here in Colorado and I thought putting lockers in the front or front and rear diffs would help traction. But I have been advised this would not be a good idea. Any ideas?Chris Baker4wheeloffroad.com
Conventional thinking says that if you drive on snow- and ice-covered roads you do not want full-time lockers in the front and rear of your 4x4 because they will exaggerate your vehicle's tendency to understeer, fishtail, or even to swap ends.