We think you better reconsider buying the new Suburban. If you have to pay a shop to essentially restore a 30-year-old Suburban and update it with an EFI big-block, 1-ton running gear with lockers, lifted suspension, and a custom interior with new seats, you'll eat up the budget real quick. We don't want to sound pessimistic, just realistic, because we have always wanted to do just what you've described. Hot rodders call it a resto-mod, and when completed you have a vehicle that is totally unique, completely functional, and really expensive.
But if your heart is set on doing it we recommend you use as many off-the-shelf parts as possible to keep costs down and replacement parts easy to find. So to us that would mean a Chevy V-8 (go ahead with the Ramjet if you can afford it), a 4L80E transmission to an NP205 transfer case out to a Dana 60 front and 14-bolt rear with 4.56 gears, and Detroit Lockers. The interior equipment is up to you, but keep in mind that to compete with a new truck you'll need A/C, all new weatherstripping, a stereo, power windows, and working gauges. And we haven't even mentioned a paint job and bodywork. Of course, if you do get it done-send us pictures!
Cut and Turning AxlesI have an '86 Dodge Ram that's been lifted about 8 inches with new leaf springs. Recently I swapped in a Dodge Dana 60 front axle. The problem I have is my front driveshaft angle is too steep. I have already ground out the front yoke to prevent binding and swapped in a Spicer double cardan joint at the transfer case, but I still twist both apart. I would shim the front axle to turn the pinion up, but Dodge casts one of the spring perches into the differential centersection for the passenger-side front leaf-spring mount. This makes turning the pinion up with shims difficult because one side of the spring plate is held on with a U-bolt and the other with studs that bind on the plate holding the springs down when twisted. Lowering the transfer case is possible but the engine would also have to be lowered. Is there any other way to correct this angle besides converting to a coil-spring front end?Richard MardisWinnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
The correct way to solve the problem is to have both axletubes cut out of the centersection and then press in new tubes with the pinion tilted up in relationship to the axle end forgings.
The driver-side perch is then simply cut off of the axletube and repositioned to match the angle of the cast-in perch on the passenger side. This type of procedure is known as cutting and turning an axle and has the benefit of retaining the stock caster angles, something that angled shims under the leaf springs won't do.
You could have a difficult time finding a shop near you that can do this procedure. Anyone who builds axles from scratch should be able to do it, but a large press and experience with this type of work are essential for success. If you can't find a shop locally, consider Dynatrac (714/596-4461, www.dynatrac.com) in Southern California or Teraflex (www.teraflex.biz) in Salt Lake City.
Adding an In-Tank Fuel PumpTo power my recently swapped-in EFI V-8 I need to add a high-pressure fuel pump capable of making 45 to 60 psi to fuel the engine. I also need to route a return line back to the fuel tank to mimic the factory's design. My truck came with a carburetor and an engine-mounted fuel pump. Can I reuse any of this stuff, or do I need to start from scratch?Lorne Robinson4wheeloffroad.com
Consistent fuel pressure is vital for an EFI engine or all sorts of nagging problems can arise. When we convert a truck for EFI use we try to follow the model of OEM manufacturers who pay a bunch of smart people to figure out the best way to get fuel from the tank to the engine and then back no matter what angle you put the vehicle at.