This front steering is one of the most complex parts of the buggy build. In order to make the drag link and Panhard bar have near identical geometry, we needed to use a double crossover system. This uses two drag links and a swingset idler arm that is mounted on the passenger side of the frame. | 
The swingset idler arm is made out of chromoly plate and uses bronze bushings at the pivot point. The orange spacers are put in the idler arm so that the spacing is set for the FK Rod Ends in the drag links and stays consistent while it is TIG-welded. |
The pitman arm is also custom made by welding the splined section of a factory arm into this fabricated unit. Note how the ram assist attaches to the end of the arm. This setup is not as helpful off road as having the ram directly mounted to the drag link; however, it does help reduce stress on the steering box and is protected since it is mounted up in the chassis with the steering box. | 
The steering box requires a strong mount so this custom multiple-gusset piece was fabricated to the front of the chassis. In order to get the directions from the goofball in the driver seat down to the steering box, we ran a single long steering shaft which uses two Spicer U-joints and yokes from 4-Wheeler's Supply for their great angle, beefy size, and ease of repair. One yoke is splined to the box while the other can be bolted, keyed, or welded to the shaft. |
In the cockpit we used a steering wheel and quick disconnect from Grant Steering Products. Grant has been in the automotive aftermarket since the 1920s and I chose a simple black wheel from its formula GT line with a 14-inch diameter and 3-inch dish. The quick release and the Poly Performance tilt-steering mount will make entering and exiting the buggy that much easier. | 
You may have noticed these headlights we mocked up on the front of the tube car. They are Nordic 500 snowplow lights made by Hamsar, and they feature high- and low-beam settings as well as turn signals and are DOT-approved. Eventually we'll build a small tubular guard around the lights to protect them during rockcrawling. |
Though the steering was the most complicated step so far, the rear shock mounts were the most time-consuming. We tossed around a few ideas, but Drew's design won out (go figure, he runs the Poly shop, and is head fabricator on this build). We concluded that a race-desert-styled rear mount would be great, with an added window for rearward visibility. | 
The shock mounts were again made from cardboard first and then cut out of 0.090-thick chromoly sheetmetal. In order to get the nice curved corners in the window and the holes for the dimple die, I used various size hole saws. Then I cut the remaining piece out with the giant bandsaw. |
The final mount offers a sturdy point for the rear Fox 16-inch by 2.5 coilover shocks. Since I'm using shocks with the piggyback reservoir there is no need to find a mounting place for the reservoir on the chassis. | 
The entire mount is made up of 10 separate pieces that all need to line up with each other as well as attach to the B and C pillars of the buggy. This required using many different size clamps and a little bit of heat and hammers to get all the panels to follow some of the curves. |
With the buggy sitting on some random coils and 42-inch Super Swamper Iroks on the black 17-inch Walker Evans racing bead locks, it stands at 72 inches tall with 22 inches under the belly. This height will be adjusted a bit once completed and final coils are chosen, but only within a few inches, as we want to keep a good balance between up and down travel in the suspension. | |