Get a new lease on life! Seriously, if you've ever leased a vehicle you know the frustrations of wanting to modify that vehicle, but you are well aware of the penalties and financial consequences that may occur. So what are you supposed to do? Leave it stock? Buy a beater rig? Well, both options make sense, but depending on where you live and what you do, owning multiple vehicles isn't always the most practical avenue, nor is turning your daily driver into a full-on trail rig (unless you go off-roading for a living, then in that case please send us a few blank job applications). Like most things in life, the key is to find a balance, that happy medium that rests somewhere between the awesome roar of Mud-Terrains and the obstacle of a 60-mile daily commute.
We decided to test our lease-truck theory on a truck that was leased to us, an '06 Dodge Ram 1500 TXR4 that sooner or later Chrysler will remember we have and off it will go, but we sort of promised them it would come back stock (there was nothing mentioned about scratched and dented, though; we have a tendency of redefining the word used). By returning the vehicle back to stock you should avoid the penalties of lease modification and even be able to get a jump start on your next ride's additions. Now we're not suggesting that you solid-axle your new leased pickup, but a mild suspension lift that doesn't require you to torch off your subframe or notch any crossmembers is OK in our books. These are just some of the bolt-on goodies that will protect your rig from your weekend adventures and can easily be knocked out in your driveway with a few handtools and a little time. Just remember to store all your original parts in a safe place. Taking pictures of procedures and parts isn't a bad idea either. As time passes it may be hard to remember what went where.
Lifting your truck doesn't necessarily mean you have to go sky high or cross the line of becoming impractical. Many of the new 1500 series trucks run a strut-style shock for the front suspension. This coilover design makes it easy for aftermarket suspensions, such as this Rancho Quick-Lift strut, to give you up to 2 inches of lift without dropping or modifying any of the control arms or attachment points. Most of these 1- to 2-inch kits, commonly referred to as leveling kits, will usually allow you to squeeze on a healthier sized tire than the pizza cutters that most of the new trucks come from the factory with. The adjustability of the Quick-Lift gives you a variety of options to harden or soften the ride depending on the terrain. | 
A tool that is a must-have when working frequently with coils and struts is a coil compressor. If you don't plan on opening up a shop we suggest running the struts down to your local 4x4 shop and having them swap your original spring onto your new strut. | 
While you have your front end apart it's probably a good time to look at your brakes. Chances are if you're leasing the truck they're probably brand new, but since you're going to be running larger tires with your new lift, it's always smart to upgrade to a better stopping system. The rotor on the left (black rotor) is an EBC high-performance slotted rotor that has been grooved to enhance braking, dissipate heat, and provide a better surface area for the pad-to-contact width. |
Just like rotors, not all pads are created equal. Holding both pads side by side it's hard to tell the difference, but high-performance pads such as the yellow EBCs are designed with different tolerances than what you get from the factory. The thing to remember is that car manufacturers design their vehicles around average driving characteristics, and as we all are aware, if there is an average, that means there is an above and a below... | 
...What does this really mean? Depending on who you ask, the aftermarket world may sometimes carry an advantage by creating a product that allows the vehicle to reach its full performance potential, thus creating more advance compounds for brake pads allotting for higher heat capacities and performance characteristics. | 
Here's a quick tip if you know you're going to be removing your calipers. Pictured is a simple S-hook that attaches the caliper on one end, then secures it to a hole in the vehicle's frame. Don't have hooks? Try using an old coat hanger, a bungee cord, or even a tie strap. Anything is better than letting your calipers hang from the lines. |