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1987 GMC Suburban: The CheapBurban

Fullsize Power for A Downsized Price

By Fred Williams, Photography by Fred Williams
After.

I admit I like Toyotas, and I even considered getting one for CTC. But when Editor-in-Chief Rick Péwé bought and built his Trail Toy last month for our Cheap Truck Challenge (“Cheap Truck Challenge Build, Part 1,” Aug. ’12) I knew I had to outdo him with massive American iron! I’ve never owned a Suburban before, and I figured that if I were 17 and needed a way to haul all my friends out to the woods for some camping, wheeling, mud whomping, and bonfiring then a Burb would be hard to beat.

Before.

I started my search for the budget bro-hauler and was determined to come in way under the $2,012 purchasing budget. I searched long and hard on the various online classifieds for a $1,000 Burb, with little luck. Actually, quite a few were available for that price, but I was begging and choosing. I didn’t want a half-ton. I wanted a 4x4, and I definitely wanted the rear barn doors. I’m not sure why the barn doors were required, but they were. I quickly found a recurring problem with Suburbans: automatic transmissions that can’t survive. It seems that in every ad I found for a low-dollar crew hauler the Sub either had a dead trans, a slipping trans, or a recently replaced trans. To put it bluntly, I don’t think an automatic is right for a heavy bus like a Suburban, especially if I’m on a budget. This is really shocking since many 3⁄4-tons came with a TH400, a great transmission. I would definitely steer clear of the half-ton Burbs with the TH350 or 700R4.

CheapBurban has a little rust, hideous running boards, a drooping headliner, a weird coffee or blood stain on the carpet, a dead stereo, a steering column that wobbles around, worn-out front seats, and a clutch with barely 1⁄8 inch of engagement. But it was cheap.
CheapBurban has a little rust, hideous running boards, a drooping headliner, a weird coffe

Then I found it, a needle in a haystack of dead slushbox Burbans, the rare yet perfect ’87 GMC 3⁄4-ton Suburban with a four-speed manual! Plus, to seal the deal it has a fuel-injected TBI V-8 and barn doors out back. Sold! I test-drove it and hauled it home after parting with 13 of my hard-earned Benjamins. My new favorite wheeling, camping, mobile funhouse was about to be built and done cheap.

Cost Breakdown
Vehicle Budget $2,012.00
Vehicle Price 1,300.00
Savings 712.00

BuildUp
Upgrade Budget $2,012.00
Upgrade Spent 2,012.00
Total Spent 3,312.00
Budget 4,024.00
For Future Upgrades 712.00

  • There is nothing better than gutting the carpet and headliner from your new cheap truck. I’m sure that over 25 years this Burb has seen more than its share of spills and dirt. Who knows if they were hauling groceries, wood, or rotting carcasses in there? It’s all gone now, right down to the steel bed. LMC Truck has everything to replace this, and I would consider that if I had the ducats, but this is Cheap Truck Challenge, so for now it gets ejected.
    There is nothing better than gutting the carpet and headliner from your new cheap truck. I
  • A proper buildup requires intense research, extensive data, and cross-referencing to develop a concise plan and course of action, all within the fine parameters of expected use of your 4x4 and budget. Or you can just order up some 35-inch Q78 Interco Super Swampers, mount them on the factory 16-inch steel wheels, and try and figure out how to make it work from there. Found tires online for $1,100, leaving me $912 to spend on the rest of the build.
    A proper buildup requires intense research, extensive data, and cross-referencing to devel
  • WD-40 is cheap and it works, especially if you are planning on removing 25-year-old bolts. I sprayed the stuff on every nut and bolt on the suspension. When I was a young dumb kid my dad told me again and again to spray every bolt on whatever I was working on. Nowadays I spray the suspension with two or three coats of the stuff for days prior to wrenching.
    WD-40 is cheap and it works, especially if you are planning on removing 25-year-old bolts.
  • The front springs under the Burb were flatter than an emaciated supermodel. I called up the square-body Chevy experts at Offroad Design and told them all about my project, the carpet stains, the too-tall Q78s, the lame running boards, and how I was sure this particular Suburban had been used to haul someone’s roadkill collection previously. They suggested a set of their 4-inch-lift front leaf springs. Cost: $336. $576 remaining in the build budget.
    The front springs under the Burb were flatter than an emaciated supermodel. I called up th
  • New U-bolts and shocks were required with the front springs. This took $117, leaving me $459 to spend.
    New U-bolts and shocks were required with the front springs. This took $117, leaving me $4
  • The steering geometry had to be fixed after the front of the truck was raised, and the most budget conscious way to do that is with a raised steering arm on my front 10-bolt axle. WD-40, heat, and severe abuse with a big hammer finally released the 25-year-old cone washers on the factory arm.
    The steering geometry had to be fixed after the front of the truck was raised, and the mos
  • The new steering arms and a set of front and rear longer ORD braded brake lines set the finances back $187. It was going to be tight with just $272 left to spend.
    The new steering arms and a set of front and rear longer ORD braded brake lines set the fi
  • Instead of new springs in the back I opted for Offroad Design’s shackle flip kit for $189. This replaces the factory tension shackle with a compression shackle. It also pushes the spring down and raises the back of the Burb. But first I would have to remove the six rivets that hold on the factory shackle hanger from each side.
    Instead of new springs in the back I opted for Offroad Design’s shackle flip kit for $189.
  • I used a grinder to cut the heads off the rivets and knocked them through with a hammer and punch. Then I cleaned up the holes with a small die grinder. A plasma cutter or air chisel would have been easier, but those are high-dollar tools. Fishing the bolts through the frame with the factory Suburban fuel tank in place was as much fun as lemon juice in your eye. I finally devised a system whereby I wrapped a small wire around the bolt threads and pulled it through. I found out later that Draw-Tite makes a coiled wire pull (PN 55393) perfect for this.
    I used a grinder to cut the heads off the rivets and knocked them through with a hammer an
  • The shackle flip reuses the factory shackle and raises the rear 4 inches to match the front. I also added two more shocks, spending $77. I had just $6 left.
    The shackle flip reuses the factory shackle and raises the rear 4 inches to match the fron
  • I took my last $6 and bought some batteries for an old boom box I had, and now my CheapBurban was ready to wheel and party!
    I took my last $6 and bought some batteries for an old boom box I had, and now my CheapBur
  • The tires measured right at 35 inches, and being tall and skinny they cleared fine at ride height. I trimmed ever so slightly behind the front tires on the inner fenders to be sure they didn’t rub under articulation. The running boards also got pitched in the scrap pile.
    The tires measured right at 35 inches, and being tall and skinny they cleared fine at ride

What’s Next?
The CheapBurban is done for Cheap Truck Challenge, but I’m already planning on a handful of upgrades. First is a set of Offroad Design’s heavy-duty greasable shackles. The factory shackles are thin, and the ORD ones will raise the front slightly and be stronger. I’ll also add ORD’s steering box brace for additional support because these boxy GM trucks are notorious for cracks around the box on the frame, and I’ll add an ORD sway-bar disconnect kit for unrestrained front axle movement.

I have already ordered a new clutch and power steering pump from RockAuto. RockAuto is great for replacement parts, and I know the clutch is on its last legs. I’m not going to replace these parts prior to CTC because they don’t fit the budget, but the pump is whining and the clutch barely engages and slips bad in Fourth gear on hills with the bigger tires and stock 3.42 gears. The SM465 transmission also pops out of Third gear under deceleration, so that will be addressed eventually. And gears and lockers are always a good future upgrade, but for now the stock rear Gov-Lok limited slip will have to do.

SOURCES
LMC Truck
15450 W. 108th Street
Lenexa
KS  66219
800-562-8782
www.lmctruck.com
Interco Tire
2412 Abbeville Highway
Rayne
LA  70578
337-334-3814
www.intercotire.com
Rock Auto
6680 Odana Road
Madison
WI  53719
866-762-5288
www.rockauto.com
Off Road Design
970-945-7777
offroaddesign.com/
By Fred Williams
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