Anyone who off-roads for any significant length of time has probably given some thought to modifying their factory fenders. These thoughts surface for any number of reasons-be it a way to gain more tire clearance while keeping a low center of gravity, replacing fenders that have been destroyed on the trail, making the fenders stronger, or just changing them for the sake of looks. We decided it was time for a rehash for all of the above listed reasons.
We gave the folks at Blue Torch Fabworks a call to see what they had cooking and they told us about their DIY tube-fender kits. Blue Torch offers these DIY tube-fender kits for CJs, YJs, and TJs. The kits include all the parts you need to make your own tube fenders. The kit consists of eight pieces, four pieces for each side of the vehicle. All you need to put them together is about half a day, a welder, and a buddy to lend an extra pair of hands. The tube-fender kits retail for $175 and can be ordered directly from the Blue Torch Fabworks Web site. Follow along as we walk you through building and installing these great kits.
This is what you get when you order the Blue Torch Fabworks DIY tube-fender kit. These eight pieces fit together to create your new tube fenders. The tube is 1 1/4-inch x 0.120-wall DOM tubing that is prebent and cut to fit. The plate pieces and brackets are laser-cut from 1/8-inch high-strength steel. | 
First, remove everything that is mounted to the inner fenders since this kit eliminates them. You will either have to make some new inner fenders, or relocate the things mounted to them like we did. Once everything is removed, unbolt and remove the original fenders. Replace one fender at a time to keep the grille from wobbling around. | 
The next step in installing the new fenders is to attach the mounting plates to the body tub. We started with the rearward fender mounts at the firewall. You will notice in this picture that these new pieces are narrower than the stock fenders. We ended up having to cut the rock rails back a bit so they were flush. |
Once the firewall panels are in place, bolt on the front support brackets at the grille. These brackets, like the firewall panels, reuse the existing bolt holes and bolts from your original fenders. | 
This is where measuring and taking your time counts; once the grille and firewall brackets are in place, mock up the tube. Use a level to make sure everything is square before you tack-weld. Tack it all in a few places and recheck to make sure it's still square. | 
We decided to lay the beads on the framework while it was still on the Jeep since it was in a comfortable position and it would help ensure the fender didn't warp during welding. Once the framework was welded up, we clamped the fender plate in place and then welded it on. |
After we finished welding the panels on, we used an 80-grit flap disc to knock down the weld bead and leave the top of the fender nice and smooth so it looks like one piece of metal. While this step is by no means necessary, it makes for a better-looking finished product. | 
After the welds had cooled and the beads were ground down, we hung the fenders and sprayed on a few coats of paint to protect the metal. We chose spray paint so that when the fenders inevitably get scuffed up on the trail, touch-ups will be simple and quick. | 
The final step is to reinstall the painted fenders on the Jeep. Mark and drill the holes for the hood latches and figure out how to remount all of the things that used to be mounted to your inner fenders. A quick trip to the local auto parts store netted us a cheap universal radiator overflow bottle and some surface-mount turn signals to keep the local law enforcement happy. |