When we immerse ourselves in this never-ending cycle of modifying trucks, we sometimes forget the basic concept that for every action there must be an equal and opposite reaction. While many of the parts and components we bolt, weld, or hang onto our vehicles improve them for our intended uses, from time to time these add-ons uncover a vehicle's weak links.
The crew at Carli Suspension is tough on their late-model Dodges. After needing to replace the stock upper ball joints for the fifth time after a wheeling outing, they said "enough is enough" and threw themselves into some serious R&D to find a way to keep the front end of their 3/4-ton alive for longer. As a result of this research, they found that they were not alone: The upper ball joints in the '03-'08 Dodge Ram 3/4- and 1-ton 4x4s seemed to be a common problem and a factory weak link among heavy Mopar wheelers.
After spending more than a year brutally testing and accumulating thousands of miles, Carli Suspension unveiled its Extreme Duty upper ball-joint set for the '03-'08 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 4x4s. Comprised of heat-treated 4130 chromoly and doused with a specifically formulated dry lube coating, the massive factory replacement ball joint is designed to withstand the increased pressure and forces induced by larger tire-and-wheel packages along with heavy off-roading. Lubed with Redline synthetic grease, the Carli ball joints are an easy way to upgrade your Dodge Ram's AAM front axle and can be knocked out in your driveway or by a knowledgeable tech in about two hours. These joints are an easy and smart upgrade intended to keep your truck on the trail and save you some serious time and money.
1. To save time-and since the steering knuckle needs to be detached-we removed the four bolts that connect the unit bearing to the knuckle, then slid it out as one unit with the axleshafts attached. The overall breakdown takes less than an hour per side and can be done in your driveway using a floor jack, jackstands, and tools every automotive enthusiast usually has.
 2. A helpful hint for removing...  2. A helpful hint for removing the knuckle and tie-rod ends is to tap the metal casting with a hammer to help break the joints free. Also, be sure to keep a nut loosely threaded under the upper ball joint so when the knuckle breaks loose it doesn't go crashing to the ground or onto your toes. |  3. A ball-joint remover is...  3. A ball-joint remover is a must-have to complete the job, and it is a sound investment for any wheeler's tool collection. One can be picked up at most automotive stores or tool distributors for around $100. |  4. The Carli Extreme Duty...  4. The Carli Extreme Duty upper pivot joint-or ball joint, as it's commonly called-is comprised of 4130 heat-treated chromoly that is coated to spec with a dry lube by an aerospace facility... |
 ...A two-tier configuration...  ...A two-tier configuration provides a greater surface area for superior strength and allows the joint to hold up better. This deters the effects that larger tire-and-wheel combos have on the AAM front end, and it handles the shock and load of the heavy 3/4- and 1-ton trucks. |  5. Fitted with unique ports...  5. Fitted with unique ports and valleys for the grease to pass through, the shank and inside of the joint housing are hand-lubed with the provided Redline synthetic grease. Sealing the shank is a preinserted seal that is precision- fit to keep the crud out no matter what you drop your axle in. |  6. Since the joints are built...  6. Since the joints are built with such tight tolerances we found it is best to leave a little gap when you insert the grease into the joint to allow air to escape. Once filled, tighten the top back and begin reassembling the knuckle. Carli suggests tightening everything to factory specifications. |