Ball joints are pretty boring. They don't make your truck look cool. They don't do anything special other than support weight and rotate. And unlike big knobby tires, locking differentials, and flexy suspensions, they don't seem to really do much off road. But when they fail (or start to fail) all hell can break loose and your truck will become a tire-wobbling death machine. Dynatrac recently introduced its Pro Series ball joints to replace your troublesome (and boring) old factory joints for the following vehicles: •'94-'99 Dodge 2500/3500 4x4 •'03-'09 Dodge 2500/3500 4x4 •'92-'98 Ford F-350 straight-axle only (not the twin I-beam) •'99-'09 Ford F-250/F-350 4x4 •'07-current Jeep JK The axle we are starting with for our project is a Dodge AAM 91/4 front axle, but Dynatrac offers Pro Series ball joints for nearly every late-model, solid-axle 4x4. Complete disassembly of the axle brakes, shafts, and steering is required when replacing the ball joints.The axle we are starting with for our project is a Dodge AAM 91/4 front axle, but Dynatrac The new Pro Series ball joints are engineered to be stronger than factory ones as well as being rebuildable, both increasing longevity and decreasing costs over time. Most late-model, solid-axle trucks use ball joints instead of the older kingpin bearing design, so finding a stronger steering pivot is important because these later-model axles are being used in 4x4 project trucks. For example, we recently put a Dodge AAM 91/4 front axle from an '06 1-ton in our '65 Dodge M37 project. Since the M37 will be running 40-inch tires and will be driven both on and off road, we decided to upgrade the old original ball joints with the new Pro Series ones. We used a Miller ball joint tool to remove the original rusty ball joints from the inner Cs. This type of tool is available at many auto parts stores and specialty tool houses.We used a Miller ball joint tool to remove the original rusty ball joints from the inner C The upper ball joint is installed and removed from the top of the C, while the bottom goes in or out from the bottom of the C. A snap ring keeps the lower ball joint from coming out, as does a press fit.The upper ball joint is installed and removed from the top of the C, while the bottom goes The lower joint has an actual ball on the tapered shaft that bolts into the steering knuckle, and it pivots in a plastic cup. This is the loaded ball joint, as it supports the weight of the vehicle. The upper joint is a follower joint and it also has a tapered pin, but it does not support the entire weight of the vehicle. The Pro Series ball joint kit comes with all the hardware you see on the right.The lower joint has an actual ball on the tapered shaft that bolts into the steering knuck Before installing the Pro Series joints it is a good idea to clean the ball joint opening in the Cs with a wire brush and some emery cloth or sandpaper, removing any rough edges and rust. It also doesn't hurt to heat the Cs with a propane torch to make them expand slightly, making installation easier.Before installing the Pro Series joints it is a good idea to clean the ball joint opening Two methods for installing the new ball joints are using the ball joint installation tool. Or, with the Cs warmed and this Dynatrac ball joint tool, you can easily knock the ball joints in place with some heavy hammer blows.Two methods for installing the new ball joints are using the ball joint installation tool. The final step before reassembling the axle is to torque the ball joint nuts with the knuckle back in place. This seats the ball joint firmly in the knuckle and pulls the knuckle in place.The final step before reassembling the axle is to torque the ball joint nuts with the knuc SOURCES Dynatrac 7392 Count Circle Huntington Beach CA 92647 714-596-4461 www.dynatrac.com By Fred Williams Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!