Confused? E-mail your questions about trucks, 4x4's, and off-roading tech using "Nuts, I'm confused" as the subject and include a picture (if it's applicable). Digital photos must measure no less than 1600 x 1200 pixels (or two megapixels) and be saved as a TIFF, an EPS, or a maximum-quality JPEG file. Also, I'll be checking the forums on our Web site (www.4wheeloffroad.com), and if I see a question that I think more of you might want to have answered, I'll print that as well. Otherwise drop it old-school style with the envelope addressed to the address below. Letters published in this magazine reflect the opinions of the writers, and we reserve the right to edit letters for clarity, brevity, or other purposes.
Write to:
Nuts & Bolts,
4-Wheel & Off-Road,
6420 Wilshire Blvd.,
Los Angeles, CA 90048-5515,
fax 323.782.2704
E-mail to:
fred.williams@primedia.com
Question: I'm building up a '53 Dodge M-37. I'm going to be using it for mild off-roading and occasional street duty. It still has the original 230ci straight-six, New Process four-speed, and New Process transfer case. The axles are original and still retain the stock 5.38 gears. My problem is I don't know the exact make of the transmission, transfer case, and axles. I would like to add some higher gears (4.11 or 4.56) for the street. Where can I find parts for this truck? Or should I instead drop in a 350ci four-speed from a 1-ton Chevy and retain the stock transfer case since it is relatively strong, then add a Dana 60/70 axle combo? One last thing: Is there a company that offers a complete wiring harness for this vehicle?
Tom Widi
Washington
Answer: Oooh! An M-37 is such a cool project! I have this crazy buddy that has one with years of trail abuse, and every time I see it I get jealous (see pic). These big-fendered military trucks have a ton of class. The Web sites of both Boyce Equipment (800.748.4269) and Vintage Power Wagons (641.472.4665) show a 4.88 gearset and many parts for restoration.
I would ditch all the original drivetrain and go to the late-model stuff. I have a similar old truck that is all original, and unfortunately I rarely drive it. It's cool because it's original, but it's slow and has bad brakes, iffy steering, and fire-hazard wiring. Plus it's hard to start, and when it does run I always worry I'll end up stranded with some rare busted part that has to be found on eBay to get it running. I would rationalize it like this: If the Dodge engineers had had access to a V-8 engine (fuel-injected if you dare), a manual transmission, and 205 geardriven transfer case, plus late-model 1-ton axles with power steering, disc brakes, and a flexible suspension, not to mention some more common eight-lug rims with 38-inch tires, don't you think they would have installed them in the M-37?
I know we'll get letters from guys who do restorations and they'll be mad that I'm telling you to change the truck, but for one thing your modifications will make their rigs more valuable to collectors looking for unmolested 4x4s. Plus, since you'll actually be driving yours on the street, those collectors will see how cool M-37s are and they'll need one for their collection of old cars like Duesenbergs and '57 Chevys that just sit in some air-conditioned garage getting older.
Don't think of it as destroying a piece of history. Consider it more like you're helping to finish the research and development that Dodge engineers in the '50s would have done had they been given the chance. Get it done and send pics so I can be jealous, and since you sent in the tech letter of the month I'll send you a copy of last year's 2005 Ultimate Adventure DVD.
Question: I have a '97 GMC Sonoma that is turning into a big dilemma. I would love to throw a Dana 30 and 44 under it and sit it up on some 35s, but it is a daily driver. I thought about a suspension lift and keeping the IFS, but they want way too much for a lift. So I cranked the torsion bars and put a set of 2-inch lift shackles under it. I now can get a set of 31s under it, but if it flexes they will rub and if I cut the wheel all the way they rub. I was thinking of putting a 2-inch body lift on it so I can clear the 31s. The one problem is that I can't severely beat this truck because I need it as reliable transportation to get to work. I work construction so it could be anywhere. I just want the truck to look cool and I could trail-ride with it; no hard-core stuff. I have a set of 31-inch Pirelli Mud Scorpions for it and I am getting a set of Cragar soft 8 wheels. I have a custom prerunner bar on it and will soon have a 3x6-inch tubular rear bumper, 1x2-inch rocker guards, and a set of Pro Comp off-road lights. I still want something to severely beat off-road so I am going to do what you guys did, Cheap Truck Challenge. I am giving myself $1,500 to build a capable trail rig. I am going to start with an XJ Cherokee. Is that a good start? I figure the lifts are cheap and the Jeep is too. I found an '89 for $700 with all new brakes, water pump, and alternator. My plan is to lift it 3 1/2 inches using Tuff Country's EZ ride kit and set some 31s under it. It's only about $500 for the lift. But if you know where to get a 6-inch lift for it, I would like to know. Well, that's my plan and I would appreciate it if you could let me know if I could do something better but on the cheap side.
Addison Moroz
Kulpmont, PA
You have the ultimate 4x4 dilemma, how do you keep your daily driver in suitable condition, while still wheeling the snot out of it. We see two choices: Build the GMC the way you want it, or buy another rig for trail thrashing.
If you really like the GMC and want it to look cool but also be a capable trail rig, why not spend $700 on a quality commuter car, maybe an old station wagon or two-wheel-drive pickup good for carrying parts and tools? Then pull the GMC into the garage for a few months and begin the solid axle swap. We would go with a Dana 44 and a set of 35-inch tires. If you take your time and don't cut any corners (make sure you have proper steering and driveshaft geometry, the correct springs or coils and links, and appropriate driveshafts and brakes), then you could easily drive a solid-axle Sonoma every day when it's finished. Unfortunately, this will probably end up costing more than the IFS kit, especially if you have never done any custom fabrication and need to hire a shop to do it. But you would get exactly what you want, and that goes a long way.
Keeping the GMC as your daily driver and getting an XJ is a great option as prices are low and they can take a fair bit of abuse. Other great options are early '80s solid-axle Toyotas, Suzuki Samurais, or even Sidekicks (you can make the IFS take some abuse), and early solid-axle Chevy, Ford, or Dodge trucks. Unfortunately for you, living in Pennsylvania means you will be encountering rust in all these pre-'90s solid-axle 4x4s so the late-'80s XJ may be your best bet. As for a 6-inch suspension, check out those offered by Full Traction (800.255.6464), Rubicon Express (877.367.7824), and Rock Krawler Suspensions (518.270.9822).
Question: Do you have information or suggestions on converting a military Humvee from a diesel engine to a gas-powered Chevy 350?
bmx4mac
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Ah, the Hummer.... Seems like almost everyone I know wants one, but most folks have a hard time getting one home. I can see why you would consider swapping a Chevy gas V-8 for the old gutless 6.5L diesel. The only place I have found that has done it is Rocky Mountain Hummer (406.586.8477, www.rockymountain hummer.com). However, some issues you will encounter include changing the truck to 12 volts from 24, dealing with the diesel fuel system, and possibly needing a body lift to clear the engine intake.
Another option is the Optimizer 6500 diesel from General Engine Products (www.optimizer6500.com). This engine is currently offered in some military Hummers, and it has much better performance than the earlier 6.5L ones.