Question: I have a '90 Chevy S-10 Blazer that I am planning on installing a solid front axle into. I have done countless hours of research for that past three years and have figured out most everything except what happens when you change the angle that the leaf spring is mounted. If the front spring eye is higher than the rear spring eye, what are some of the pros and cons? I have found lots of information on spring rates, lengths, shackle lengths, and angles, but nothing on how the spring is mounted. What would the ideal position be for a leaf spring in the front?
I am using a Dana 44 out of an '84 Grand Wagoneer for a front axle with a matching AMC 20 in the rear. Right now the axle is set up for spring-under, but I may change it to spring-over. The springs I'm using are Pro Comp 4-inch-lift springs for a YJ, and the shackles with be at the rear of the springs. I plan to run at least 35-inch tires, and I want to be able to drive the Blazer anywhere. Maybe someday I will be fortunate enough to have it complete and attend an Ultimate Adventure.
Thank you for any information to help me out, and hopefully I'll see you out on the trail someday.
Dan Kelly
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: The infamous S-10 question... I get nearly nine per week: How do I lift my S-10, and how do I do it for no money? I agree that you're headed in the right direction by going with a solid front axle swap, and the Dana 44 and AMC 20 will be fine with 35-inch tires. If your S-10 doesn't have a 4.3L V-6 and a later 700R4, then spending weeks on a solid axle swap is a waste of time in my view because the other drivetrains are gutless junk.
Before setting up the front springs, you need to mock up the axles and note the caster of the knuckles as well as the pinion angle to determine your driveshaft angles. You want your pinion pointing straight back or, better yet, up slightly toward the transfer case, while also having your knuckles angled backward (positive caster) by 5-10 degrees to help the tires return to center. In order to get your front axle set up you may need to grind out the welds on your end forgings and rotate them. This step is often left to a qualified shop so that both sides are the same angle.
In order to attach your springs at the desired angle you may need to cut off these spring pads and either reweld them on at a different angle or replace them with new spring pads at the desired angle.
When you take on a project like this, your truck will most likely be down for a few weeks at minimum. Proper and safe welding is a must, especially if you plan to drive this vehicle on the street. Finally, we recommend tack welding everything first in case you need to make any changes before it is finished.
As for deciding between spring-over and spring-under, either is fine, and either has its pros and cons. Spring-over can reward you with more ground clearance, but you may run into issues where the Blazer is too tall with your 4-inch lift springs. If you go with shorter springs you may have issues with uptravel, steering clearances, and axlewrap. Going spring-under can help reduce axlewrap, but then you have that thick spring pack hanging below the axletube to get caught on stuff. The best bet is to mock up where you want the truck's ride height to be, then put the tires on the axle and roll it underneath to determine how much spring you need. Remember that springs will settle a bit. Also, if you make the proper measurements and your used or aftermarket springs don't fit the parameters for what you want, custom spring houses such as Atlas (626.333.7373), Deaver (714.542.3703), and Alcan (888.321.0870) can make you what you need.
The optimum position for the spring is tricky. You want the front of the spring high so that it clears trail obstacles, but you don't want it higher than where the shackle mounts to the frame. The best position is to have the front and back eyes of the springs level with each other, though some adjustment from that is acceptable. Spring eyes level with each other means the axle will move in a more vertical line, helping articulation and driveshaft issues, compared to the front spring eye being level with the frame mount on the shackle.
Another key consideration is the angle of the shackle. If the spring is flat at ride height you want the shackle vertical so that it swings forward as the spring compresses or droops. If the spring has a large arch then you want the shackle angled so that the top of the shackle (where it attaches to the frame) is pointed inward toward the center of the leaf, otherwise your spring rate will effectively be raised and the truck won't flex very well.
As you can see, you need to consider many things when putting a solid axle under the front of your S-10, even with old-school leaf springs. You also need to be willing to adjust each component to get the optimum performance, even if it takes more work, time, and money.
Question: I live in New Hampshire and do a yearly mud bog up here. I am thinking of entering my Ford Explorer, which has a five-speed with manual hubs but still the electronic four-wheel drive. Mind you, I will most likely be the only female in the competition to start with. We are considering an 8-inch suspension lift with 35-inch Super Swampers, and I am trying to guess if I have a shot or should I look into something like an older Bronco? I am a Ford girl, and my ol' man is all about Chevys. He would prefer to have me run a Chevrolet, but he says it's my choice.
Monster4x4fan
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Yes, you can run your Ford Explorer in the mud bog, but you might get stuck. It's hard to know just how deep the mud will be, but I see nothing wrong with your bolting on a suspension lift and having a go at it. If this is an all-out competition then you may need more power and axle strength than your Explorer came with, but those upgrades can all be done down the road. The most important part about four-wheeling is getting out there and doing it.
How much abuse do you plan on dishing out to that Explorer? We have seen a few of them on the trail, but we've seen more older Broncos, so realize that there is definitely a larger aftermarket support for the Bronco model and thus more options and cheaper parts. I say take that Explorer and go hammer on it, see what breaks, and then upgrade those parts. Yours will be different than most of the trucks there for sure, and if you have a positive attitude then even carnage can be fun. Plus, don't worry about being the only female in the mud, as I'm sure you will quickly inspire a whole posse of ladies who are sure they can outdrive their "ol' man."