Tim-Zookie?
I've had an '87 Samurai on 31s for just a little while and have already busted my itty-bitty front axle. I was wondering how Tim Hardy was able to keep his axles alive running 35s (someday I would like to play with 35s). If you could tell me how to do what he did or anything else that would add a little beef to my stock axles, I would appreciate it.
Kyle
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Tim Hardy has been along on many of our Ultimate Adventure trips and though his Suzuki Samurai looks hammered, he rarely spends time fixing the axles. The biggest factor to his axle survival is his driving style. He rarely, if ever, uses excessive throttle, and if he gets in a situation where the tires start to bind, he quickly backs out and tries another line. Plus since his Samurai is so small and light (not to mention Hardy himself) he can usually crawl obstacles that other, heavier vehicles need to throttle up.
Even with that said, Hardy did make some trick upgrades to his axles, and would be willing to do it for others if they wanted. The front axle uses a stock carrier with an EZ locker and rear-axle side gears to get 26-spline inner axleshafts. Then he sourced some 5.12 gears out of an '89-'96 Geo Tracker or Sidekick with some special mods to keep the cross shaft in place. Running from this front locker are some 4340 chromoly axleshafts from Dutchman that have a 26-spline inner end and a 27-spline outer end. That 27-spline end runs into a Subaru 87LAC Birfield from a '79-'83 turbo Subaru wagon front end. These Suby Birfields have cups that are much larger than stock Samurai units, but Hardy had to cut and weld new stub shafts onto the cups to match the stock outer Samurai hubs (this is a step where his experience as a machinist and welder pays off). Finally, in order to get these new larger Birfields into the axle, Hardy has to completely remove the knuckle and even then it's a bit of a struggle to get them in.
In the rear Hardy uses a Sidkick centersection, again with 5.12 gears, but this carrier is stuffed with 31-spline Ford truck side gears that are specially machined to fit in the carrier. Again a Detroit EZ locker is used, and it amazingly meshes with the machined Ford gears. Finally, the side-gear bore is milled out and Ford thrust washers are used.
The final step to Hardy's long-living axles is the proper break-in. After the initial setup, Hardy drives 3 to 5 miles and lets the axle cool down completely, then 5 to 15 miles and another cool down, then 15 to 30 and again let them cool. After that he changes the oil and checks the gears for any heat issues or discoloration. Then after 200 miles he checks the oil for any large chunks of metal. Then it's normal driving for up to 300 miles and then at 500 miles he changes the oil to a high-quality synthetic and he's ready to go wheeling.
If all this is up your alley, you can get a hold of Tim Hardy at 530.642.0436. Otherwise, I'd recommend Trail Tough (877.789.8547), Spidertrax (800.286.0898), or CV Unlimited (800.868.0057) for some Suzuki axle upgrades.
Don't Be Anti-AMC
I want to swap a 283 into my '75 CJ-5 Jeep and I'd like to know if this is a good swap. My Jeep has an AMC 304 in it now but parts are hard to find for it. If this is a good swap, what will I need to make it work? I have a T-15 three-speed. I only have 33x12.50 TSL Super Swampers and open diffs. Mud and clay are what I will be mostly using the Seep for, and driving to work sometimes.
James Ehlers
via e-mail
I'm sure you are considering swapping in the 283 since it is a GM engine and most GM V-8 parts are ultra common, but even so I'd keep the AMC 304. AMC parts are not all that rare, and the aftermarket has many options for upgrading this engine. Edelbrock (310.781.2222, www.edelbrock.com), for example, has heads, intakes, and complete fuel-injection systems. The time and money involved in swapping in the 283 will pale in comparison to a few solid AMC upgrades. Plus, you would also be going to a smaller engine and that is not what you want for the mud.
Always Locked?
What is the safest distance you can drive on the street with your front hubs locked?
Ricardo Rodriquez
Fort Payne, Al
Locking hubs were designed to help fuel economy, reduce wear and tear, and resist front driveline vibrations, but driving on the street with your front hubs locked while in two-wheel drive is not necessarily bad. When you lock the selectable hubs it attaches your wheel, tire, and hub assembly to the axleshaft. This in turn causes everything within the axle and your front driveshaft to rotate, but it is being turned from the tires, not the transfer case or engine. If your front driveshaft has no balance or angle problems, then you shouldn't notice any vibrations, and other than a slightly increased wear on your steering and driveshaft U-joints, carrier and pinion bearings, and the seals on your axle and the front output of your transfer case, you should be fine to drive down the highway with your hubs locked. However, having to turn all those parts will also reduce the fuel economy of your 4x4. If it were up to me I would get out and unlock the hubs.