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Confused? E-mail your questions about trucks, 4x4's, and off-roading tech using "Nuts, I'm confused" as the subject and include a picture (if it's applicable). Digital photos must measure no less than 1600 x 1200 pixels (or two megapixels) and be saved as a TIFF, an EPS, or a maximum-quality JPEG file. Also, I'll be checking the forums on our Web site (www.4wheeloffroad.com), and if I see a question that I think more of you might want to have answered, I'll print that as well. Otherwise drop it old-school style with the envelope addressed to the address below. Letters published in this magazine reflect the opinions of the writers, and we reserve the right to edit letters for clarity, brevity, or other purposes.
Write to:
Nuts & Bolts,
4-Wheel & Off-Road,
6420 Wilshire Blvd.,
Los Angeles, CA 90048-5515,
fax 323.782.2704
E-mail to:
fred.williams@primedia.com
Tech Letter of the Month:
Upside-down Diesel
I read the article on vehicle preparation after a trail rollover ("Hang On" Apr. '06). You mention that before starting the engine the spark plugs need to be removed and the engine turned over a few times to relieve the cylinders of oil that might have bled past the rings. How would I handle that concern with a diesel?
CAT
Milwaukee, WI
A diesel engine has just as much chance for oil to leak by the rings and into the combustion chamber as in a gas engine during a rollover situation. In fact, most diesel engines need that oil to help lubricate the skirts of the pistons so they might even have a larger gap in their ring than a gas engine. In the case of a rollover with your diesel 4x4, the easiest step would be to remove the glow plugs, as long as they are inserted directly into the combustion chamber, and crank it over to make sure no oil is in the cylinder. If your diesel doesn't have glow plugs threaded directly into the combustion chamber, you can either remove the injectors if they are threaded into the combustion chamber or pull the valve cover and put a small shim or screwdriver between your exhaust valve and rocker arm. Then turn the engine over by hand with a large wrench or socket on the crank. I don't see many diesels on the trail, but with the torque and run-at-steep-angle attributes these engines offer, they make great backwoods vehicles.
Since this question had the whole staff scratching our skulls, I decided to award it our Tech Letter of the Month. Elsewhere in this issue you can read about our recent trip to Florida, and I'm sending you a copy of the Trucks Gone Wild videos showing big trucks (some diesels) sled pulling, mud bogging, having tug-o-wars, and even floating a monster truck across a lake! For anyone else interested in these videos check out www.trucksgonewild.com on the Web.
Hunting Diesel in the Yukon
I have a '96 Yukon and have had numerous problems with the 350 engine and transmission, plus it has more than a few miles on it. It is used primarily as a daily driver to mild hauler and occasionally sees some dirt. I would like to swap in a diesel in favor of the current 350. I am not, however, looking for a torque monster as much as a reliable means of upgrading the drivetrain. I am leaning towards the Cummins for its reliability and reputed gas mileage, but know little about the requirements for this kind of swap. I suspect that the suspension, frame, and drivetrain will need to be upgraded, but other than that I have no direction. Is it even physically possible?
Nathanial Backes
via 4wheeloffroad.com
You have hit on a popular swap idea. Diesel power is hot these days, but swapping from a gas engine to a diesel engine, especially in a 1/2-ton truck or a Yukon, requires lots of work. With the current price of diesel fuel surpassing that of premium gasoline, we are not really convinced of the financial argument for the swap. And remember that in the state of California any engine swap must be done with a same year or later engine as the vehicle being swapped into, so check your local laws. I discussed this job with Bryan McCully of Fabworx Off Road (707.566.7045) in Santa Rosa, California. He just finished a similar swap into his own '96 GMC truck, but he didn't make any claims that it's not a lot of work.
My first piece of advice is to go with an Optimizer 6500 from General Engine Products (www.optimizer6500.com). It has a Chevy bolt pattern and would be an easier swap, plus some versions push around 300 hp. If you are set on the Cummins route, I'd recommend looking for a '94 to '97 Dodge Cummins 4x4, as these 12-valve engines come with the later-version fuel pump that has more aftermarket upgrades available and have endless possibilities for power, while not being computer controlled like the current 24-valve. You would be better off getting the entire truck including the transmission, transfer case, and heavy-duty axles since your stock parts will not stand up to the torque output of the Cummins. In the end only the body and frame of your Yukon would be reused. That frame is not even stout enough to deal with the engine's robust power, though plating and stiffening with some properly attached tubework is another option. So plan on a body lift, a solid-axle swap, a full drivetrain swap, a fuel system upgrade, and a monetary outlay that will take years to justify based on fuel economy. Plus electrical components like your speedometer and gauges may need a complete rework if you want the stock style dash. Is this swap possible? Yes, and it has been done before, but you have to be really married to the Yukon body style to justify it. Nonetheless, I want to see it first when you're all done. For more information, check out these Web sites, www.cummins-conversion.com, www.fordcummins.com, and www.autoworldmt.com.
Wanted: Cheap Truck
My uncle gave me his '87 Sami a few years ago. I had it for six months and had to sell it. I've missed it ever since. Now that I'm a little older (24) and have a decent job, I can afford to get another and trick it out. I have the Sami bug real bad. I'm not looking to spend a lot. It has to be a budget wheeler, and I also want to use it as a second commuter car. I'm having a hard time finding one that is in decent condition for a good price. I don't really want to spend $1,500-$2,000 for a beater. How did you find one for $450? And a '91 with EFI at that? I don't mind if it has miles or whatever. I plan to motor swap down the road to give me a better chance to pass smog, plus a little more kick to wheel better. Any help you can give would be great. It's going to eat at me every day until I get one. I can't wait to take it to the desert.
Matthew Kaluzne
via 4wheeloffroad.com
I've been experiencing the exact same problem. I went to check out an old flatfender Jeep that wasn't exactly pristine, but the owner had seen some other old Jeep go for $10,000 on eBay and was sure that his was worth the same. I know that there are some good deals on the Internet, but some folks are out to make a quick buck on others' ignorance.
The trick to finding a good deal is looking for trucks that previous owners no longer want to deal with. Start driving up and down back alleys, around gas stations, and even past parking garages. What you are looking for is a four-by that looks a bit derelict, dusty, and sitting low on a flat tire or two. Then it is time to do some acting. Even if the vehicle is not showing a "For Sale" sign doesn't mean you shouldn't knock on the front door. My favorite pickup line goes like this, "Hello. A friend told me there was an old Samurai [or Jeep, Toyota, and so on] for sale around here. Is the one in your driveway perhaps for sale?" Oftentimes the owner either says yes it is, or is willing to give you his phone number in case he might want to think about it. However, if he says no, ask him if he knows of a similar rig for sale, as owners of certain models often know where to find more.
Another great method to find a good deal is start telling folks what you are looking for. Both of the Samis I brought home and most of the other rigs I've owned were found by just telling lots of friends and some strangers what I wanted. It's amazing how 4x4s start coming out of the woodwork when you have more than just your two eyes looking. It doesn't hurt to ask friends that work as parts countermen, garbage men, police officers, and tow truck drivers, as they all get around a lot and might just find your next project. Finally, go check out the local junkyards and charity vehicle sales lots, as both can be hiding your next deal. In fact, the best way to find a cheap deal is to shut off your computer and get out there hunting the back roads.