Confused? E-mail your questions about trucks, 4x4's, and off-roading tech using "Nuts, I'm confused" as the subject and include a picture (if it's applicable). Digital photos must measure no less than 1600 x 1200 pixels (or two megapixels) and be saved as a TIFF, an EPS, or a maximum-quality JPEG file. Also, I'll be checking the forums on our Web site (www.4wheeloffroad.com), and if I see a question that I think more of you might want to have answered, I'll print that as well. Otherwise drop it old-school style with the envelope addressed to the address below. Letters published in this magazine reflect the opinions of the writers, and we reserve the right to edit letters for clarity, brevity, or other purposes.
Write to:
Nuts & Bolts,
4-Wheel & Off-Road,
6420 Wilshire Blvd.,
Los Angeles, CA 90048-5515,
fax 323.782.2704
E-mail to:
fred.williams@primedia.com
Question: My family and I have been doing remote camping recently and I've gotten my 2WD Ram 2500 stuck in the sand a couple of times. The Ram still has the stock tires on it, and they spin in the dirt as if they were bald. We tow a 4,000-pound travel trailer. I would like to know if adding some mud-terrains (BFGs, MTs, Wrangler, and so on) and perhaps a locker would make any real difference. The cost for that would be substantial (although way cheaper than a new truck) and I wonder if it would pay off.
Chris Hunt via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Yes, new tires and a locker will make a huge difference. What you want is a real locking differential like an ARB Air Locker, or a Detroit Locker installed in your rear axle. This simple upgrade will get power to both rear tires instead of just the one with the least amount of traction. Also swap out those bogus factory treads for a wider version of some all-terrain tire. Find one designed to help float on soft sand, and maybe look into some slightly wider tires for the trailer as well. Finally, remember to air down till your tires get a bit of a bulge (15 to 20 psi) when you get to the sand as it will help increase your tire's footprint. Though we recommend four-wheel drive, a two-wheel-drive with a rear locker is the next best thing.
I'm not sure if you have a winch on your truck, but since this basic question should help a lot of our readers, I'm sending you a new 3/8-inch synthetic winch line with billet-aluminum safety thimble from Winchline.com. With a tested 19,600-pound breaking strength, it should surely haul your truck out when someone isn't there to help. So in addition to lockers and tires, invest in the security of a winch and a solid bumper mount to keep the family safe on those backcountry excursions.
Question: I have a '94 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 with a 350 V-8. People have told me if I want to increase horsepower, I should keep the 350 and improve on it. But with 146,000 miles can it still do it? Would a 454 work worse or better? What are your suggestions?
Jonathan Zeeland
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Your '94 small-block truck has a throttle-body injected engine, and though 146,000 miles is a lot, with proper maintenance you should easily get another 100,000 out of it. The biggest question is what do you want to do with the truck? If it is your daily driver, light off-roader, and weekend camper, then the small-block should be fine. If you tow a lot and need lots of grunt to get a heavy trailer over steep hills, then looking into a big-block or diesel may be a better option. However, swapping a big-block into a small-block truck can become very expensive and time-consuming. Your transmission and radiator may need to be upgraded to heavier-duty versions like a 4L80-E...and they are not cheap. Since these '88-'98 variant Chevys are currently pretty reasonably priced, we'd suggest keeping the small-block, or selling the whole truck and finding a big-block variant if you tow.
If you keep the small-block you can easily gain some power by changing the exhaust, upgrading to a high-flow TBI, and then getting a custom computer chip program such as those from Turbo City. After that you are looking at a cumulative upgrade of heads, intake, and cam.
Question: I have an '82 Jeep CJ-7 and an '88 Grand Wagoneer. Right now the Grand has an auto tranny, but I miss driving a stick. Would a five-speed out of a CJ bolt up to it? I'm pretty sure the engines have the same bolt patterns. If the stock Jeep five-speed wouldn't bolt up, or hold up, what do you think would be a good replacement? Would you even suggest replacing the near bulletproof 727 Chrysler auto? I know those are good trannies, but I like the stick shift.
Nick
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: I ran this by our resident Jeep guru, Editor Rick Pewe, and he seems to think you are asking for a lot of work, though he agrees manuals are more reliable off-road. First, did you know that you could actually get a Wagoneer in the early '70s that came with a T-18 four-speed manual? You would have a much easier time tracking down one of these trucks versus doing the swap you want to do. Also he doesn't think the Jeep T-5 five-speed will hold up to a Wagoneer V-8 very well as many had issues behind the I-6.
If you like shifting then you could try a full manual valve-body 727, as it requires shifting, but it doesn't need a clutch. If you are dead-set on putting a manual in your Jeep, we would recommend a T-18, but one that is from a Ford with a Dana 20 behind it since your front axle differential is on the driver side. You would also need a flywheel, clutch, clutch pedal and assembly, and bellhousing, plus a factory mid '70s Jeep J-truck or Wagoneer T-18 front input shaft and housing in order to get the transmission shifter back from under the dash of your Wagoneer. All in all, the work is possible, just not practical.
Question: I'm looking for my first truck. I love off-roading and would like a decently capable rig, especially for mud and some rocks. After reading all the dirt on the IFS, I'm trying to find a solid-axle 1/2-ton, but most of them I've seen have at least 100,000 miles, whereas I need something that can be a daily driver. Would I be better off to bite the bullet and buy an IFS, or to swap in a solid axle, or to search for an older solid-axle truck?
Stephen Powers
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: When deciding on your first 4x4, you need to consider a handful of things. For instance: How much can you afford to spend, do you know your way around wrenches and engines enough to work on an older truck, how extreme do you plan to get off road, how important are late-model amenities to you, and is the truck supported by the aftermarket for upgrades? Try to look for one of the following solid-axle trucks: Chevy Blazer, Ford Bronco, Jeep Wagoneer, or Dodge Ramcharger for an SUV-style fullsize rig, or any 3/4- or 1-ton pickup with solid axles since their axles are usually a bit beefier than the 1/2-ton variant. Of course, I like the older trucks for their rugged build and lack of plastic and excessive electronics, plus there are tons of options for upgrades. On the other hand, I can see the value in buying a late-model low-mileage 4x4 and then later swapping in a solid axle. If you live in a rust-prone area, that can be a better option. Plus, the aftermarket is just starting to make IFS components that can really stand up to off-road abuse, but I am still partial to the old faithful solid-axle trucks for a first time truck owner/off-roader. Ultimately you need to get a truck you like and that you can afford. If it's IFS, start saving for that solid-axle swap. If it's an older solid-axle, start saving for basic maintenance that any older truck needs to keep it up and running.