Question: I own an '85 4Runner and I was kicking around the idea of a spool up front. To get around the steering problems, I was thinking I could run the trail with only one hub locked and then when needed, I could lock both hubs for rocks and hills. Do you think this would work, or is it a bad idea?
James R.
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Do I think it will work? Yes. Is it a bad idea? Yes. I find it hard to believe that you will be getting out of your truck and locking or unlocking that single hub each time you want to turn. Then you are applying a ton of torque to just that one axleshaft. If you are dead set on running a spool, then just drop the transfer case into rear-wheel-drive only. Hopefully you are running dual cases so that you still have a single low range in two-wheel drive. Now when you do have both hubs locked, the steering won't be as rough since you are running CVs in your front axle as compared to U-joints, but it will still be difficult to steer, especially on nonslip terrain like rocks. If you only run in slippery mud or sand, then you might be OK, but I would still recommend some sort of full-time or selectable locker if you can afford it.
Question: I am 18, fresh out of school, and I want a mud monster/daily driver. I have located an '80s Chevy but it's a little rusty. Rust isn't the problem; I kind of know what I want to do, but I'm not sure which part is the best. I want a 305 because gas is too expensive up here in Canada, and I want 6-8 inches of lift. On a 1/2-ton can I run 38s and what gears should I use? Any advice given on cheap wheeling and such would be greatly appreciated...and I'm not going to ask for a license plate because I want to earn one someday.
Landon Larsback
Canada
Answer: Good day, northern wheelin' brother! So you want to build a boxy Chevy from the '80s, eh? That truck is a great entry-level wheeler, and tons of options are available to you. First you need a plan. I think 38s will be fine on your truck/Blazer, although I would lean toward 36s or 37s to help reduce breakage with your 1/2-ton axles. In addition, I would only go with a 4-inch lift and then trim your rusted fenders to help clear the big tires. This should be cheaper, as well as making it a nicer daily driver with a lower center of gravity and reduce issues with steering and driveshafts. I prefer suspension kits that come with all new springs, not lift blocks. However, lift blocks are OK for a budget lift in the rear, but never use blocks in your front suspension. Though I'm not convinced that the 305 is going to greatly improve your fuel economy over a 350, it should be slightly better and parts for it are readily available and cheap. But at the same time you may need a little lower gearing to help it turn the big tires. I would go with 4.10, 4.56, or 4.88 if you don't have an overdrive transmission-4.88, 5.13, or 5.38 if you do have an overdrive. I would also get a locking differential or two.
Question: I know this is the wrong way to go about this project but it's just too hard to resist the urge. I've got a '96 ZJ with a 5.2L and at the moment it's 100 percent stock. I would like a Jeep that's ready to walk up anything Moab can throw under it. That's where you guys come in.
This is my first project, and I don't have a clue what I'm doing. To start, I'd like to use T- Rock axles (but they cost too much so something similar), a 7-inch long-arm Rock Krawler lift, 35x13.5x16 Baja Claws, a new tranny and transfer case (maybe Advance Adapters), and an ARB Bull Bumper. The engine? Mostly just bolt-ons such as heads, intake, and headers. I can't find anything. So if you guys could help me out and do a little research it would be a great help.
My brain is almost mush from surfing the Internet and finding nothing, and from not having nearly enough experience in gears, transmissions, transfer cases, or suspension components. By the time I get done I would like it to be a little overkill from bumper to bumper, rubber to roof. All the help, ideas, and suggestions are greatly needed.
Jake
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: You've made two very good decisions. First you chose an excellent vehicle to start with-solid axles, coil-sprung suspension, and V-8 power make for a great-performing off-road vehicle and one that won many years of our 4x4 of the Year competition. And second, you are honest in that you don't know exactly what you need to do and are willing to ask for advice before diving headlong into your project. As such, I'm going to award you with the Tech Letter of the Month.
I can see many ways to improve your '96 ZJ, especially if you want to run 35-inch or larger tires. Your truck probably has a Dana 35 rear axle and a Dana 30 front, neither of which is incredibly stout, so upgrading to Dana 44 or Dana 60 axles would be wise depending on how extreme you want to get. I personally like putting Dana 60 axles under my trucks, since I would rather be wheeling the trail than wrenching in the dirt, but if you are only going to run 35-inch-tall tires, Dana 44s should be fine. The '86-'95 fullsize Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 axles can be used. Either way you will need to swap all the brackets onto your new axlehousings and change the gearing to something in the 4.56 to 5.13 range. Don't forget lockers.
Your Cherokee probably has an overdrive automatic and a full-time transfer case. I don't see any reason to swap out the transmission, but I would probably change the transfer case. If you keep the front driver-side axle you will need either an aftermarket transfer case like an Atlas (800.350.2223) or Stak 4x4 three-speed (915.584.2400), but you can also look into a Dana 300 with a flip kit such as those being made by Stak 4x4.
There are numerous suspension systems available for ZJs, and your choice of a long-arm kit from Rock Krawler (518-270-9822) is sound. I like the long-arm kits since they have fewer negative affects on the pinion angle than some short-arm kits.
The 5.2 motor isn't bad and personally I like to leave a solid running engine alone until after I have a working suspension and drivetrain. I feel the use of gearing and lockers can often make up for a lack of motor, but there are times such as in deep mud and sand when having gobs of power is helpful.
Finally look around both your hometown and at Cherokee clubs on the Internet for guys that have built a truck like the goal you have in mind. Ask them their advice, what they would do differently, and what parts really worked.
This month's winner of the Tech Letter of the Month will receive a free Nylon Jacket from Wolverine Boots' new line of clothing. This heavy-duty jacket is perfect for work, hunting, camping, and of course four-wheeling.