Question: I am the proud owner of a '76 Jeep CJ-7. It has 38-inch Boggers, a spring-over conversion, Dana 60s front and rear, a 383 stroker, an Atlas transfer case, and 4.56 gears. I want to install a set of Truck Nutz on the back of my rig and don't know where to begin. Could a weekend wrencher handle the install or should I hire a professional? Will they hurt my departure angle? What color is the most durable? With so many different manufacturers, how do I know who has the best nutz overall? Finally, how do I keep my nutz clean? I hope you can help me. I look forward to your response.
Mongoose
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: You don't know how often I get asked this question, and to tell you the truth it's a very valuable and insightful query you have posed. Truck nuts, tailgate testes, bumper balls, chassis cajones, differential danglers...the market is booming these days, but unfortunately we just don't have the proper facilities to test the best make and model for your ride. I am, however, sure that with a name like Mongoose you have more than your fair share of ladyfriends hanging about, and they could most assuredly help you pick out just the right sack of jewels for your Jeep.
Oh, and another thing. When it comes time to tighten up your nuts and keep them clean, don't be afraid to ask those members of the fairer sex to help you out as well. However, I have heard that sometimes womenfolk can be real ballbusters, so take that into consideration-especially if she shows up with hammer and a vise. Finally, yes, they will impair departure angle, but only on warm days when they hang low. On colder day I wouldn't doubt they'd shrink up out of the way.
Question: Ihave a '99 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L with a 46RE auto trans and a noisy 150,000-mile wornout NP231 transfer case. Can I replace my transfer case with an NP241V (Rocktrac)? I already have the Rocktrac case, so what issues would I have to look forward to when installing it? New drivelines? Shift linkages? Or would it be cheaper and easier to get a direct replacement and just install it?
Jim
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: First be sure you have a true Rocktrac transfer case. A Rocktrac should read "241J" and "400" in the Ratio blank. I asked around, and no one has heard of a 241V. Assuming it is a Rocktrac, it should bolt up, but the input gear length could be an issue. The Ram's 231 uses a standard-length 23-spline input, and the Rocktrac uses a short 23-spline input. Spline and seal engagement may be an issue. The front driveshaft should be close and might be able to be reused, though measuring would be advised. Your factory rear driveshaft uses a slip yoke where the Rocktrac has a fixed rear yoke, so a new rear shaft will be needed. The linkage should be fine or darn close. It will probably be cheaper to use another 231, but I agree the swap would be better with lower low-range and the fixed rear output.
Question: All the time I see radiators in the rear of a vehicle. Twice now a friend and I have put the radiators in the back with no luck! I even used mandrel-bent tubing for better flow. The engine stays cool till you shut it off, then it blows half the coolant out the overflow and boils the engine. We used a 15-pound radiator cap hoping to bring the boiling point up. Is the only solution an electric water pump to run after it is shut off? Both trucks are street-driven, and I was told not to use them on the street.
Bob
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Putting the radiator in the back of your truck isn't a bad idea, but it does involve some considerations. One important item is that even though the radiator would be in the back of your truck, it still needs sufficient airflow. Putting it right up against the cab isn't the best idea. It needs enough space around it to let air flow in and out of the core.
I've discussed your issue with the folks at Ron Davis Radiator (623.877.5000), and you need to have a few things. First and foremost is a quality overflow catch can. Nearly every engine-especially an iron block engine-continues to produce heat after you shut it off, and it will burp coolant out as it heats up for a while. If you can build a big enough catch can, you can catch the coolant so it can be pulled back into the radiator as the engine cools.
Second, it is important to get the coolant filler neck above the engine to get all the air out of the system. This will also help cool the engine better.
It is also important to use a good electric fan or two. Ron Davis uses and recommends Spal fans. A good tight fan shroud is important, especially if you do not have direct airflow. These fans should be run off of a thermostatic control so they can keep running for a bit after the engine is shut off. Also, if you are running hard in the sand or mud, let the engine idle for a minute before shutting it off to help bring the temp down. As a worst-case scenario, you could plumb and wire an electric pump bypass that would kick on with the electric fans after you shut the engine down, but I would stick with the mechanical pump for the street.