Question: Would it be possible for an average Joe, or average Matt, with some tools to build a single-seat tube buggy with Dana 44s slung under it and run 31-inch tires? I plan to use it mostly for trails, and possibly spending some time in one of the gravel pits scattered everywhere.
I do have a medium-sized budget, but I don't want to go overly expensive.
Matt W., via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Yes I believe it is possible to build a single- or double-seat buggy on a budget. Here is my advice: Buy a Jeep Wagoneer. They often come with a 360 V-8, TH400 transmission, and dual Dana 44s for under $2,000 in most states. Look for a good-running truck even if the body is totally rotted. Then start bending tube (the black buggy in this photo is based off a Wagoneer drivetrain).
When building the chassis, first lay out all your components. As for tube, HREW, welded-seam tubing is fine for a recreation buggy if you build it smart. Just be sure to use at least 1 1/2-inch 0.120-wall tube, use lots of triangles in the chassis design for strength, and leave enough space around your head and the cage so that in case of a rollover you don't bonk yourself on the cage. Also use a good suspension seat and quality harnesses; they are there to keep you alive.
I have seen a lot of buggies with leaf springs in the front and coils or air shocks in the rear because it makes for easier builds. If you can afford it, get some air shocks from Fox Racing or Sway-A-Way, otherwise build it with leaf springs. I don't think air shocks are as good as coilover shocks, but they are cheaper and lighter and if you are mainly rockcrawling they are fine. However, you will need a full set of links and rod ends to build a suspension with the air shocks where leaf springs are pretty simple and darn near bulletproof. I would also recommend going with a full hydraulic steering up front such as those offered by PSC Motorsports. It is easier than using a steering box when mixed with a linked front suspension, and it makes steering a breeze. Additionally I suggest the poor man's fuel injection, also known as propane. There are kits available for many rigs and they seem to work great in trail-only buggies. Just bring a spare bottle or two of fuel since you may be the only one there with extra propane.
All that's left are all the little things in the interior that take forever, but that will also determine how comfy your buggy is. Make the floor from expanded metal and it will come together easily. Make it from custom welded aluminum panels and it will be neat but may take a while. As for gauges, just oil pressure, temp, and volts are required to be sure your engine is happy, though tranny temp is helpful and a fuel gauge doesn't hurt but isn't mandatory.
Since it's a buggy, you don't need all the extra stuff like lights, windshield, and headlights, and definitely skip the body panels unless you plan on competing and need a place for sponsor stickers, as they'll just get smashed up. I know there are a lot of people who don't like buggies, but I think they are great for the off-roader who likes to attempt crazy obstacles or who wants to have his own special ride. Of course you'll likely need to get a trailer and tow rig to get it to the trail head, but you won't be needing a welder because I'm going to supply you with one from Lincoln Electric (www.lincolnelectric.com).
Your question regarding doing it on a budget is one of those things many people don't believe, but it really is possible and so it's my Tech Question of the Month. Lincoln will supply you with a Power Mig 140C, which is a 110-volt welder perfect for a garage project like this. It will weld from 24- to 10-gauge material and can go up to 5/16-inch with Lincoln's self-shielding wire. Plus with the proper gases you can also weld aluminum or stainless steel. The Power Mig comes with everything you need to start welding except a mask, gloves, and some protective clothing, though it does have a DVD with instructions on how to use the machine and get started. I think you'll be ready to get this buggy moving and I hope you'll send us photos of the progress and the final machine.
Question: Could you help with the following question, as everyone in the U.K. is about 10 years behind the U.S. and doesn't have a clue. What is the average width of your modified trucks from outside of tire to outside of tire? I ask this as my new truck runs 42-inch Iroks, Unimog 404 axles with four-wheel steer, and 3/4 link suspension with Fox coilovers, all on a fiberglass CJ body. No matter what we did we couldn't get the truck thinner than 7 feet 4 inches wide and get full articulation and full steering lock. It's just from all the pictures in the magazines that they all look a lot thinner.
Peter W., United Kingdom
Answer: I walked down to the parking lot where a bunch of our project vehicles are parked and came up with measurements ranging from 64 inches under a Suzuki Samurai, 74 inches wide under a Jeep Wrangler, 84 to 86 inches under our FJ Cruiser and Chevy truck both on fullsize axles, and a whopping 94 inches wide under our Ultimate Super Duty that runs a medium-duty front axle. Though your 88 inches is wide, it's not too wide, and using wheels with more backspacing may help pull the tires in some. I know my buggy will sit about 85 inches wide when done and that is with axles that have 69 inches between wheel mounting surfaces and 5-inch backspacing wheels.