Nuts, I'm Confused
Minimal Lift
Question: I have a '93 Chevy K-1500 with 150,000 miles, and I want to install a smaller lift kit. I'd like to run bigger tires, but I'm 50 years old and still need to get in and out of it. It also needs new shocks and I'm wondering what you would recommend? Is this a swap I can do myself as I'm new to off-roading? And what type of price difference would there be between a suspension and a body lift?
Craig S.
Lansing, MI
Answer:I get tons of requests each month from readers looking for huge suspension lifts to clear massive tires, but I'm sure there are just as many readers out there looking for a slight lift that will clear a more aggressive tread, but still make the truck livable. Now don't tell anyone, but I've recently been driving a few trucks that are lifted with just a short 2- or 3-inch lift and it's quite enjoyable not needing a grappling hook to climb in and out of the cab. When you only add a slight lift to your truck it keeps all the suspension components that much closer to stock and more in line with what the OEM engineers designed. This in turn increases longevity of CV and steering joints. I found a 21/2-inch suspension kit for your truck from Skyjacker (318.388.0816, www.skyjacker.com) and Rancho (734.384.7804, www.gorancho.com). Both come with new shocks and are sold through 4-Wheel Parts (800.284.9905, www.4wheelparts.com) for around $750 dollars. In addition, both kits use rear add-a-leaves, which I prefer to lift blocks. I would have no issue recommending either to you, and the Skyjacker kit is a little less expensive than the Rancho, but I prefer the Rancho shocks from my experience. Both kits should clear 33-inch tires, and with a set of tools, a jack, and some jackstands you should be able to install it in your driveway.
A body lift is a different bird than these kits altogether; costing between $175 and $300 depending on which kit you go with, and most of these are 2- or 3-inch kits. I wouldn't personally go above a 2-inch body lift and I prefer no more than a 1-inch since you are adding leverage to the mounting bolts and not really gaining any ground clearance. That being said, a body lift does leave the suspension alone and keeps it within factory geometry, which isn't bad especially on a truck that sees a lot of street driving. Also the new body lifts are much more complete than in years past when you were lucky to get a box of old hockey pucks with holes drilled in the middle.
Building a truck with a short lift seems contrary to the years of upgrades guys have been doing to their 4x4s, but it's not really a bad idea, especially as fuel prices increase. A truck with a short lift, some mud tires, and a rear locking differential can still take you down many off-road trails, and though it's not going to cross neck-deep mud or vertical rockcrawls, it doesn't mean it won't be fun to wheel and explore.
You've earned this month's "Nuts, I'm Confused" award by asking the question that many of our (how do I say this nicely?) less extreme and less agile (aka older) readers want to know. As much as I like a tall truck on 37-inch or larger tires, I know the many pitfalls and costs that come with building a big truck on big tires. AEM (310.484.2322, www.aempower.com) has for you a Brute Force intake with the only dry performance filter on the market. These intakes are engineered to draw in a clean fresh-air charge for your engine at up to 1,350 cfm, while filtering down to a single micron. The brackets for mounting the intake are fully TIG-welded, the tubing is aircraft-grade aluminum, the coupler hoses are made of noncracking silicone, and the kit comes complete with hardware for easy installation. Best of all, these kits have been submitted to CARB for 50-state legal use. Thanks for writing in.
Tired Tracker
Question: Do you know of any place where I can get info about putting in a Chevy 4.3 V-6 or a 350 V-8 in my Geo Tracker (aka Suzuki Sidekick)? I really need to know because my engine is starting to go.
Blake
via nuts@4wheeloffroad.com
Answer:Lightning Conversions (800.839.6150, www.suzukiconversion.com) has a plethora of GM V-6 and V-8 conversion kits for Suzuki Sidekicks and Samurais and Geo Trackers. Most of these swaps also require some major drivetrain changes to deal with the added power and torque.
Stumped On Shackles
Question: I was just wondering why the shackle is always at the back of the spring? I'm making a Ford Ranger with a solid front end and I really don't want to put the shackle in the back because it would throw my pinion angle off too much. I know that I could just raise the chassis up, but I want it as low to the ground as possible. I'm going to be running 35s on it with a Chevy 350.
Josh
via nuts@4wheeloffroad.com
Answer:Not all front leaf-spring shackles are on the rear of the spring. In fact, most open-top Jeeps that run leaf springs have the shackle in the front. Throughout the years there have been many companies offering shackle-reversal kits on the theory that when you hit a ditch at speed, the natural rearward motion of the shackle as the suspension compresses gives a better ride. With a front shackle, on the other hand, when you come up to a rock you want to climb and the suspension starts to compress, it actually forces the tire into the rock and (again in theory) aids in traction.
The problem you are having with your pinion may be solved by changing the angle of your spring perches. But if you are using an axle with a cast-in spring perch on the differential housing, it is more difficult. Some people use shims, but I'm not a fan of that on a front axle. I'd rather see you cut or machine the housing to a different angle, but this opens another can of worms with the mounting bolts. If going with front shackles solves your problem, I wouldn't see it being a major loss versus using a rear shackle.