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August 2008 4x4 Truck Tech Questions - Nuts & Bolts

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Looks Could Kill
Question: I am looking at buying an '05 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 with a Hemi 4.7L. Will a 2-inch leveling kit let me clear 35-inch tires? Will the stock Dodge axles handle 35s or should I stick with 33s? This will be my first Dodge.
Loren B.
via nuts@4wheeloffroad.com

Answer: Both the front and rear axle could be fine with 35-inch tires, as most of the leveling kits for your truck claim to clear 35s. However, we found that our test Dodge of the same year would only clear 33-inch tires. Also you will see a loss of power and mileage with the 35s versus the 33s. I would probably go with 33s for the best performance since the lighter, smaller tires won't tax your engine and drivetrain as much as the 35s. But if looks are more important to you, then go with the bigger tire.

Help Her Out
Question: I really want to know how a lady goes about changing the perception that all big trucks (aka play toys) belong to men. I have a '97 Dodge 2500 that I really enjoy playing in, but it never fails, every time something requires professional repair, the mechanic asks what my husband wants done with it. I am single and while there are men in my life on occasion, this is my personal truck and play thing. Please, don't suggest painting it pink (surprise, I hate that particular color). I do have personalized plates (HER TOY) on the way, but there has to be more I can do.
Samantha
via nuts@4wheeloffroad.com

Answer: Take your truck four-wheeling. When guys see you peeling out in the mud or bashing rockers on the trail, you won't have any problem convincing the guys that it's your truck. Plus the more you wheel the more you'll need to learn about your truck because there aren't always professional mechanics to help fix your ride on the trail. Yes many guys assume that a woman wouldn't own a truck or 4x4, but the fact is there are tons of women wheeling, racing, and driving big trucks every day and we know for a fact that number is growing. I definitely know a lot of guys who would love to see more women on the trail, just don't show us up too badly when you get there.

Ultimate Gross-Up
Question: I have an '84 Chevrolet K10 with a 6-inch lift, a custom flatbed, and 35-inch tires. I have a corporate 14-bolt in the rear and a big-hub Dana 44 in front. I recently boxed the framerails in fully with 3/16-inch-plate metal and went with stouter crossmembers. Can you tell me what this does to my GCVWR and my GVWR if anything?
Shelby M.
via nuts@4wheeloffroad.com

Answer: Your truck has a two weight ratings, but many different weights. The weight of the truck unloaded is known as the Curb Weight (CW), Gross Weight (GW), Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW), or Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW). The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the weight of the truck plus the cargo that can safely be moved by the vehicle. The cargo, payload, or Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC) is the maximum weight that the truck can safely move and is determined by GVWR minus GVW. The Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR) is the combination of the (GVWR) and the maximum amount of trailer weight that can be towed behind the vehicle safely. Though you can change the GVW of your truck by adding weight such as when you boxed in the frame, only the manufacturer can legally determine the GVWR of your truck. And when the manufacturer determines GVWR, it is based on frame strength, suspension load capacity, axle load capacity, brakes, tires, engine power, engine cooling, and the ability to safely move and control that much weight. The manufacturers report that number to the Department of Transportation, which is a federal authority, so it is going to be difficult to get that number increased.

That being said, there might well be a loophole within your state department of motor vehicles that allows you to increase the "official" GVWR of your truck, but we have not found one yet. Also even though the "official" GVWR or GCVWR may be difficult to change, the actual ability of your truck only requires upgrading the frame strength, suspension load capacity, axle load capacity, brakes, tires, engine power, engine cooling, and the ability to safely carry a heavier load.

Of course, if you get pulled over by a representative of the highway patrol, DMV, DOT, or the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, then you better not have a load exceeding the "official" GVWR or GCVWR of your truck even if you feel it is sufficiently modified to handle it, or you'll be getting a ticket and maybe walking home.

When More Is Less
Question: I run 32s on my '07 Wrangler Rubicon with 4:10 gears. According to the gear chart I looked at, it basically says I can run 35s and get as good or better fuel economy as my 32s. Is that even possible? If so, I'm bound to lose some power-right?
Tony O.
via nuts@4wheeloffroad.com

Answer: Going to a taller tire is equivalent to going to a higher gear in that the engine doesn't need to rev at as high an rpm to go at the equivalent speed.

RPM = MPH x GEAR x 336 Tire Size

At 70 mph, with 4.10 gears and 32-inch tires your engine will be turning 3,013 rpm, at the same speed with 35s it will be spinning 2,750. So at highway speeds you might be getting better fuel economy. However, in order to get the bigger, heavier tire with more rolling resistance to start moving, and then to keep it moving, will require more power out of your engine during acceleration. If the new tires and wheels are skinnier and lighter than the old tires, and you run them at high pressures to help them roll, and if you accelerate slowly but get to a high gear quickly, then you will probably not gain any mileage from going to bigger tires, and only if you are lucky will the mileage not drop.

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