Submission Information
Confused? Email your questions about trucks, 4x4s, and off-roading tech using "Nuts, I'm confused" as the subject and include a picture (if it's applicable). Digital photos must measure no less than 1600 x 1200 pixels (or two megapixels) and be saved as a TIFF, an EPS, or a maximum-quality JPEG file. Also, I'll be checking the forums on our Web site (www.4wheeloffroad.com), and if I see a question that I think more of you might want to have answered, I'll print that as well. Otherwise drop it old-school style with the envelope addressed to the address below. Letters published in this magazine reflect the opinions of the writers, and we reserve the right to edit letters for clarity, brevity, or other purposes.
Write to:
Nuts & Bolts
4-Wheel & Off-Road
6420 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles
CA 90048-5515
fax 323.782.2704.
Email to:
nuts@4wheeloffroad.com
Why So Much?
Question: I bought a '97 Chevy Cheyenne 1/2-ton 4x4. I intend to add a 3-inch body lift and 33- or 35-inch tires. As I've been shopping for tires I noticed that mud tires are generally more expensive than all-terrains. Why is this? Is it as simple as mud tires use more material? Or are they made differently?
Loren
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Pricing for anything is ruled by supply and demand and cost of production. I would think there is more interest and demand for an all-terrain tire than there is for a mud-terrain, even though we off-roaders usually run mud-terrains. Because of this, the tire companies usually make more all-terrain tires, and when you make more of something, you can usually cut costs. Additionally, the mud-terrain tires usually use more rubber and a heavier carcass, resulting in a higher cost to produce that is often passed onto the customer.
Fixing Young Follies
Question: I am a recent college graduate and I own a '90 lifted, locked Jeep Wrangler. In high school I did a lot of building on my Jeep only to let it sit during my broke college years. Now that I am done I have revisited my Jeep project only to find myself disappointed over the shoddy high-school fixes I have done on it. Some of my fixes are cosmetic problems, others functional, and others safety problems. Now that I am ready to build this rig right, how should I go about fixing a young man's mistakes? I don't have money to just dump into it at a shop. Do you guys have any writeups concerning an issue like mine?
Aaron
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: I also had a Jeep in high school, but unlike you, I made the mistake of selling it when I went to college. I've always regretted that sale. I don't have any articles specific to repairing mistakes you made previously, but oftentimes I'll find mistakes when purchasing a used 4x4. The best advice is to take your time and money and do it right this go-round. You'll be glad you kept your first Jeep, and you'll be much happier if you fix the mistakes and make it the safe wheeler you want it to be. It will cost some money, but learn from your old mistakes, do what you can, and pay someone to do the stuff that's over your head. Good luck. Eventually you should be able to do any and all the work your Wrangler requires.
60 Steering
Question: I have a Dana 60 from the front of a '92 F-350 and I am looking for a steering setup since I have ball-joint knuckles. I would like to connect from my steering gear to the passenger knuckle and my tie rod in the factory location. I seem to remember a product from a previous issue of your mag, a passenger knuckle with the extra arm as part of the casting, and have been unable to locate such.
Chris
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Off Road Unlimited (818.563.1208) can modify your knuckle for crossover steering, and Solid Axle (888.290.AXLE) is working on some new knuckles that should be ready by the end of the year.
Different Joints for Different Yokes
Question: I recently changed out my transmission and transfer case (old tranny and transfer case were shot). The old unit had the slip-yoke eliminator and the new one has the yoke. I got a hold of a new 1350 yoke custom shaft that I have installed and it works great. The old shafts, however, were 1310s. Now if I leave the 1310 on the front and the 1350 in the back, will this make my four-wheel drive run funny?
Josh
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Many driveshafts have different size U-joints on opposite ends. As long as the driveshaft is balanced, it doesn't matter if one end has 1350 and the other end has 1310. The same goes for your transfer case. It doesn't matter if your front shaft uses 1310 and your rear 1350. The only issue is that if one joint is smaller like the 1310, then it will be the weak link in the system.
Lost Krawler
Question: I read your article " More Travel for Chevy IFS" (Sept. '04). I have been looking and can't seem to find the Rock Krawler kit used in the article. I was wondering if you had any more info on the kit.
Shayne M.
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Rock Krawler is now split into two companies: Pure Performance for the truck suspensions, and Rock Krawler for the Jeep Suspensions. Both companies can be reached at 518.270.9822.
Nuts, I'm Confused
Safety Jeep
Question: I recently purchased an '00 Jeep TJ that came with factory driver- and passenger-side airbags and a keyed lockout switch for only the passenger-side bag. I am a bit concerned about serious off-roading triggering the driver-side bag. Is there any provision for disabling it?
Tom S.
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Great question. The fact of the matter is that it is actually illegal to disable a driver-side airbag, though many people have done it by tracing and disconnecting the bright yellow airbag wire and have been rewarded with a warning light glaring at them on the dash. I wouldn't recommend it. In all my wheeling I have only seen a handful of airbags deployed while off road, and none were Jeeps, and only one was during a situation where the passenger didn't need airbags and again that wasn't in a Jeep. Jeep Wranglers, unlike many makes, seem to have their airbag settings dialed in so that deployment doesn't happen at every bump and grind. I'd leave it alone and just go wheeling. I think the airbag won't bother you, and in fact if might just save your life if you nose-dive off a cliff.
Since your question can apply to many readers, I'd like to award you this month's Nut's I'm Confused prize. The folks at Randy Ellis Design (602.803.1122, www.randyellisdesign.com) specialize in lightbars and high-performance off-road fabrication. They also offer a really nifty hood-mounted Hi-Lift Jack mount and lightbar combo from their Sleekster line of lightbars. This month they'll be sending you this mount for '97-'06 Jeep Wranglers. The Hi-Lift Hood Mount attaches to the hood hinges, holds a Hi-Lift Jack, and can mount three 2x6 rectangular lights securely. It doesn't interfere with vision, windshield washers, or the hood opening. The Hood Mount is made from 10-gauge steel, is all CNC laser-cut and formed and comes in satin black powdercoat finish. This mount bolts right on and requires no drilling, cutting, or modifications to the vehicle.