Nuts, I'm Confused
Jeep Junky
Question: I recently picked up an '89 Wrangler with a blown 4.2L six and an auto trans. Can I put a 2.5 Iron Duke four-cylinder in, or do I need to stick with the same engine? Can I put an earlier Jeep 258ci six-cylinder in or is the 4.2L different? I have received info that the 4.2 is a Renault (junk) and is different from the 258. Please help as I cannot get a straight answer and am living on a budget.
Nathan
Via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: I'm not sure where you got the idea that your 4.2L is a Renault engine, because it's the same as an older CJ model 258. In fact, you could probably find a cheap replacement in an AMC Eagle station wagon or some Wagoneers. Or look in a Wagoneer or J-truck for a 304, 360, or 401 V-8. This will require new motor mounts, exhaust, cooling, and the removal of the torque-converter sleeve in the crank. You'll most likely kill the rear Dana 35 if you go with a V-8, so I'd probably stick with the 258. The 2.5 Iron Duke four-cylinder uses a GM bellhousing bolt pattern and would require an adapter to your TF 999 automatic. The 258 isn't a bad engine at all, but one issue that often crops up is the Motorcraft distributor and ignition.
Since I like your project and I've always liked the 258, I'm going to send you this month's "Nuts, I'm Confused" prize; a D.U.I .distributor and a new set of spark-plug wires from Performance Distributors (901.396.5782, www.performancedistributors.com). The DUI is similar to the GM HEI, which incorporates the coil in the distributor cap and the module inside the distributor. The D.U.I. coil produces 50,000 volts by using a Dyna-Module that has more electronic dwell time in it to give the coil more saturation time and produce a hotter spark.
The D.U.I. distributor eliminates the ballast resistor that is used on the stock AMC ignition system. This will allow full alternator voltage through the ignition system and will provide a stronger spark and more power. In addition, each D.U.I. distributor is tuned on a distributor machine based on the specs of the engine. The smooth advance curve is designed to eliminate engine-damaging detonation and give instant throttle response. The D.U.I. distributor uses High Energy Ignition (H.E.I.) replacement parts which can be found at any local auto parts store, making it a performance part that is easy to field-repair if ever needed.
Aired Out At The Dunes
Question: I first began my wheeling on the beaches of Southern Virginia and the North Carolina Outer Banks in a '47 Willys panel truck I bought for $100 in 1969. I modified it with big, wide tires for running on the deep, soft sand with little horsepower. Over the years I've wondered if you air down the tires of the vehicles competing for 4x4 of the Year during the sand performance section, and if so, how much? It has been my experience that even with a lot of power, you can get stuck in sand if you don't air down, and am wondering if that's your experience too.
Cliff
Via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Right, airing down the tires when driving in sand can make all the difference in the world, especially if you have a small engine and an underpowered vehicle. However, during our 4x4 of the Year test we do not air down the tires. We used to, and we also used to swap all the vehicles onto the same size and style tire, but now we simply set the tires to the pressure recommended by the owner's manual or by the sticker on the vehicle's doorjamb. This doesn't necessarily make them the best they can be in the sand, but it does allow for the vehicle's traction aid systems, suspensions, and horsepower to be judged on an off-the-showroom-floor, level playing field. There are many ways to make the trucks perform better off road, but we try to test them just the way you would buy them.
In my own experience I usually air down to somewhere between 12 and 20 psi in the sand depending on vehicle weight, tire stiffness, and engine power. I wouldn't go lower than that if you don't have beadlocks.
Grand Recovery
Question: I have an '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it needs some tow hooks. Where can I get some?
Craig W.
Via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: You have two choices. Get the Mopar kits for your Jeep (PN 82207552, front and PN 82207553, rear) for about $100 each last time I checked. Or find a wrecked '99-'04 Grand Cherokee (also known as a WJ) and get the tow hooks and mounting brackets off it. If these are hard to find in your neighborhood, you might look into a Warn receiver shackle bracket (www.warn.com) that goes in your 2-inch Class III receiver trailer hitch and has a shackle for rearward recovery.
Wants Cake And...
Question: I want to build a rig that can do hillclimbs and mud drags and still be able to do long-range touring. I don't want a tall top-heavy rig. I want one that will be powerful and reliable, maybe with a long-travel suspension. I was thinking big-block and a smaller truck (either mini or shortbox, regular cab). I like wild suspensions but all those moving parts in four-link setups make me nervous. I like a smooth ride, but are leaves the way to go for reliability? I already own a '92 Jeep Cherokee. Should I stick with this unit? It hasn't let me down yet, but its only running 33s and a 4-inch lift. I've considered a V-8 swap (360 from a neighbor's rollover truck) or should I start from scratch?
Keith A.
Via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: You're asking for a lot, but anything is possible, it just costs more. Let me tell you my Swiss army knife theory. A Swiss army knife does a lot of things OK, but nothing great, where a Snap-on toolbox full of specialty tools does everything great, but costs a lot and takes up a lot of space. You can either have one truck that does a lot of things OK, or a fleet of dedicated vehicles that does each terrain awesome (mud bogger, expedition vehicle, prerunner, rock buggy, and tow rig).
You need to prioritize your terrains, building for the most important terrain and have upgrades here or there for the others. Check out the Volvo expedition rig we have in this issue. It's a great touring camping rig, and OK mud truck (has ground clearance and dual winches, but no big engine) and a respectable rock and hill crawler (it'll get there with some work, a good spotter, and some skilled driving). My vote would be to build your long-range touring vehicle, then add or remove things to make it work well in dedicated terrains. Maybe a slide-in camper or camper shell that is easy to remove.
For a long-range touring truck I'd stick with the factory engine or drivetrain. Building a crazy race motor and coil-link suspension is great for mud running or rockcrawling, but a fullsize regular-cab truck with factory solid front axles and a small-block or diesel engine is hard to beat, and comes with respectable power. Maybe something like a Blazer, Ramcharger, Grand Cherokee, Wagoneer, or Bronco would fulfill this all-around truck. Starting with your Cherokee isn't a bad idea, but just remember, when looking for powerful and reliable it's hard to beat the millions that factory engineers spend on development.