Nuts, I'm Confused
Locked Or Not?
Question: I have an '88 Wrangler, all stock. What is better for the front differential, a locker or limited slip? I have heard so many stories about how lockers in the front can be bad and how limited slips just don't do the job of a locker. Which is a better choice for my Dana 30 front end? I'm on a tight budget, and I've been thinking about going with a Powertrax Unit, but the Detriot E-Z Locker is looking better to me and it doesn't cost that much more.
David H.
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: I've run a front locker and a front limited slip, and in my view I'd just go with the locker. The front locker only sends power to both wheels when you are in four-wheel drive, so there shouldn't be any worries when you're on the street. And if I'm in four-wheel drive, then I'm pretty sure I want both tires pulling, not a limited slip that is kind of locking some times.
I will admit that a limited slip might be easier on components, but then so is two-wheel drive or leaving your Jeep at home in the garage. Are you catching my drift? If you don't drive like a maniac, I think you can make your front axle live for a long time with a locked differential. If I lived in a snowy area I would put a selectable locker in the rear and a fulltime or selectable locker up front. This allows you to have one, two, three, or four wheels pulling at any time.
In fact, I'm going to send you a new Grizzly locker for your Jeep from Yukon Gear (888.905.5021, www.yukongear.com) since your question is a great Nut's, I'm Confused letter that many readers can relate to. Similar to many fulltime locking differentials, the Grizzly uses dog clutches to send power to both wheels on a given axle when under power. This in essence locks the tires together so both turn at the same speed, but then allows them to unlock when coasting around a corner off the throttle.
Whoa, Fo-Mo-Co!
Question: I own a '97 F-250 Heavy Duty Ford 4x4 pickup with a Power Stroke diesel. My rear drum brakes need to be totally replaced. All of the other brake lines have already been replaced. I was looking for a bolt-on disc brake conversion kit to replace the drums. I was hoping that you could point me in the best direction for a good-quality kit at a reasonable price.
No Name Bubba
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Call the guys at TSM Manufacturing (303.688.6882, www.tsmmfg.com). They have a kit for your truck and many other 4x4s, and it includes brackets, spacers, bolts, and new 12 3/4-inch vented rotors for around $340.
Slow And Smokey
Question: I recently bought an '83 K5 Blazer with a 6.2L non-turbo diesel, and I don't know if its exhaust setup is original or not. It has a dual pipe setup from the block with no cats. I'm also wondering if you know if an NV-4500 five-speed would work with that motor because the previous owner put in an SM465 four-speed, which is more like a three-speed and doesn't move along too well on the road.
Taylor
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: I have nearly the same setup in my '86 Chevy army truck project. I did upgrade to the Banks (800.601.8072, www.bankspower.com) Sidewinder turbo kit for this engine and it helped a bit in running down the road. I had also swapped in the NV-4500, then burnt it up (long story you can read in Dec. '08 and Jan. '09), swapped in an SM-465, and will soon be putting a rebuilt NV-4500 back in the truck. I like the overdrive of the NV-4500, but as with the SM-465, the NV has a low First gear, which is nearly useless on the street, and a big jump in gearing from Second to Third, which may well bog down the naturally aspirated diesel (it bogs down mine if I don't have enough momentum).
I think the SM-465 is a more basic bulletproof gearbox whereas the NV-4500 requires special lubricants and is expensive, but neither will feel impressive if you engine is tired, and some people feel the 6.2 diesel is tired straight from the factory! I love mine with the turbo kit. Although it's no breakneck gas big-block, it is still loud, torquey, and so far reliable.
As for the exhaust, all the 6.2 diesels I've seen have a dual exhaust and no catalytic converter, and since it doesn't need to be smogged in most locations I would leave it alone or go to the turbo kit.
One last thing: You can read about the entire army truck buildup, including the NV-4500 swap, by searching for "army truck" or "1986 chevy 1 ton 5 speed manual transmission swap" on our website, 4wheeloffroad.com.
Low Low Land Cruiser
Question: Where in the world can I find a lift kit for my Toyota Land Cruiser FJ-62 wagon? I have found some kits for way too much money at places like Cool Cruisers of Texas, but is there anything less expensive to lift my truck? I would love to fit 35-inch tires and still flex a little. Any help will be appreciated.
Elvis R.
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: The first problem you are running into is that your new truck is an old luxury 4x4, and when you mention the word luxury it raises the price. Most Land Cruiser FJ-62 owners go with an Old Man Emu suspension from ARB (www.arbusa.com), but expect prices from $900 to $1,500 depending on how much lift you want, if you need to haul additional weight, and so forth.
Another option is a spring-over axle conversion, but this may require just as much money with custom fabrication, shock, steering, brake, and driveline modifications. That said, Ruff Stuff Specialties (916.600.1945, www.ruffstuffspecialties.com) does offer a $425 spring-over axle conversion kit that requires welding.
Little 14 Wanted
Question: I am thinking of swapping a 14-bolt into my '98 Z71 and would like to keep my six-lug wheels. I know the 14-bolt semifloating 9 1/2-inch can be either six- or eight-lug, but the six-lug versions are impossible to find or too much money. Is it possible to put the axle shafts from a six-lug 14-bolt into the eight-lug 14-bolt? I have seen where they come in different lengths but don't know if it makes a difference. Thanks.
Jon
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Unfortunately the eight-lug axleshafts are about a 1 1/2 inches longer than the six-lugs. Also, converting the brakes for the six-lug would complicate matters. I say keep looking for the complete six-lug version.
Simple Swaper-roo
Question: I have a '90 Chevy Scottsdale 2500, and hate the IFS. I have been considering a solid axle swap from an '84 3/4-ton Chevy, so should I do leaf springs or coilover?
Josh
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Leaf springs are simple, strong, and proven and have safety built in. Coilover shocks are expensive, require a well-thought-out link suspension system, and need to be properly valved and charged. I vote leaf springs due to the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid), but the coilover would perform better when properly tuned. Check out the Chevy leaf spring mounts for a solid axle swap from Sky Manufacturing (541.736.3743, www.sky-manufacturing.com).