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Suspension Or Body Lift?

Is Either One Better?

By , Photography by Rick Péwé

Deciding between a suspension or body lift for your truck is easy if you're broke; body lifts are cheaper. But the benefits and drawbacks of both methods need to be considered before you lay out the green because the overall cost and associated problems each has can yield some surprising results.

For instance, a late-model Chevy truck with independent front suspension requires a complex lift kit with all sorts of bracketry, not just a simple spring and shock swap. The average cost of a kit is around a grand, and it's about the same for installation. Conversely, a body lift for the same truck is under a hundred bucks and can be installed professionally for only a few hundred more, with similar visual results.

But the actual vehicle performance of body lifts versus suspension lifts can be quite different. Simply slapping on a 3-inch body lift does allow you to install taller and wider tires, but the stock shocks and springs are generally incapable of handling the increased weight of big meats. On the other hand, a properly designed suspension kit takes the larger tires into account and usually comes with stiffer springs and shocks.

Both methods of lifting a truck have a place in today's market, and the following photos illustrate some of the pros and cons of each. While most manufacturers don't recommend combining the two styles, sometimes a small amount of both lifts can actually be better than one or the other. For example, a 1-inch body lift and a 2 1/2-inch suspension lift can often provide a better ride and greater tire clearance than a 4-inch suspension lift or a 3-inch body lift. But the best choice is always what's best for you, your rig, and the type of 'wheeling you plan to do, as long as it's safe.

  • A suspension lift alters the driveshaft angles, sometimes to the point of making the vehicle undriveable. Severe vibration, rapid U-joint wear, and yoke-bearing and seal failure can occur unless they're addressed when the kit is installed. Dropping the transfer case and shimming the rear axle pads can relieve the angle, and sometimes a longer driveshaft will need to be installed.
    A suspension lift alters the driveshaft angles, sometimes to the point of making the vehic
  • Because the axle is moved farther away from the frame in a suspension kit, the brake lines may also need to be altered. Stainless braided lines are an extra cost option on most kits and are a worthwhile investment. Some kits come with relocating brackets to move the line and to simply space the hard line lower to allow the rubber hose to flex properly under full axle droop.
    Because the axle is moved farther away from the frame in a suspension kit, the brake lines
  • Many suspension kits will need longer bumpstops or spacers to prevent the springs from overflexing and the shocks from bottoming out. While this can limit axle articulation, it's better than ruining shocks or wearing out a set of springs. Check the warranty on some brands; it may be void if spacers aren't used.
    Many suspension kits will need longer bumpstops or spacers to prevent the springs from ove
  • Steering modifications on suspension lifts can vary from a simple drop arm to a combination pitman-arm/drag-link/steering-arm arrangement. The base cost of lift springs and shocks doesn't include these extra items, which can drive the cost of your project out of sight by the time you're finished.
    Steering modifications on suspension lifts can vary from a simple drop arm to a combinatio
  • After a suspension lift is installed, sway bar links will need to be lengthened or bar brackets dropped for proper function because the bar will bind, even on the street. For off-road use, the popular disconnect style shown is handy to increase articulation. But many 4x4s with stiff aftermarket springs don't always need sway bars.
    After a suspension lift is installed, sway bar links will need to be lengthened or bar bra
  • Older vehicles with solid front axles can be lifted easily with springs and shocks. But many independent front ends or Ford Twin Traction Beams (shown) require that the front end be removed for any but the most minor of lifts. If you're not familiar with the amount of work necessary or you don't have a cutting torch, a welder, and specialized tools, you're better off having a professional shop install your lift kit.
    Older vehicles with solid front axles can be lifted easily with springs and shocks. But ma
  • On IFS rigs, some frame brackets may need to be removed with a chisel or a torch and replaced with parts from the lift kit. If you ever want to go back to stock height or install a different lift kit, you may be in trouble because the frame modifications may not be reversible. Do some research on how to install the different kits before it's too late.
    On IFS rigs, some frame brackets may need to be removed with a chisel or a torch and repla
  • Mechanical underpinnings often interfere with one another, especially after custom swaps and modifications. This skidplate cleared fine before the custom suspension lift was installed and probably never created a problem on the street. Once off-road, however, the axle drop caused the shaft to hit the skidplate, requiring a custom-cut for added clearance.
    Mechanical underpinnings often interfere with one another, especially after custom swaps a
  • A body lift is basically a reinforced hard plastic or aluminum donut or puck placed where the rubber mounts go between the body and frame. Some models eliminate the rubber mount, which can lead to a harsher ride than stock. In this photo, a custom bracket extends the puck even farther from the frame and increases the leverage and likelihood of the bracket breaking.
    A body lift is basically a reinforced hard plastic or aluminum donut or puck placed where
  • This properly installed body lift puck retains the rubber mounts on the frame for a better ride. Using homemade pucks made out of wood or other materials is dangerous and should be avoided. Most manufacturers of body mounts provide full instructions and all the necessary bolts for a proper job.
    This properly installed body lift puck retains the rubber mounts on the frame for a better
  • Most bumpers attach to the frame, but when the body is raised, a gap develops between the frame and the body, exposing wiring and underside parts. Some kits come with bumper-relocating brackets, and aftermarket skirting is available to cover up the gaps. If you have a late-model truck with an attached bumper and grille, you may need to do custom work, which will make a body lift less desirable.
    Most bumpers attach to the frame, but when the body is raised, a gap develops between the
  • All of the hoses and wiring between the frame and the body may need to be modified in a body lift. Gas fillers and vents may need to be extended, depending on the amount of lift, and some manufacturers include the parts needed. We've seen body lifts without modified hoses; the hoses were simply stretched to the point that they came off during 'wheeling, which is bad news.
    All of the hoses and wiring between the frame and the body may need to be modified in a bo
  • Even heater hoses and engine wiring may not stretch enough when a cab is lifted away from the engine. Damage to the heater core can be expensive to repair, and a short in the wiring can leave you stranded. Carefully check all connections before and after a body lift installation to ensure they're reliable.
    Even heater hoses and engine wiring may not stretch enough when a cab is lifted away from
  • To eliminate radiator hose modifications, some body lift installers relocate the radiator downward by removing the support bolts and drilling new holes in the core support. Be aware of transmission cooler lines that may need to be moved if you have an automatic trans. Don't forget to move the shroud with the radiator so it won't hit the fan blades.
    To eliminate radiator hose modifications, some body lift installers relocate the radiator
  • Steering shaft modifications are often the most difficult to overcome. The length of the shaft, as well as the angle of the U-joints, may need to be modified when a body lift is installed. Some welding of extension pieces is often involved and should be done by certified welders, and even the steering column in the cab may need to be repositioned for proper operation.
    Steering shaft modifications are often the most difficult to overcome. The length of the s
  • Another steering-related body lift problem is the power steering hoses. If they're hooked to the body sheetmetal, the hoses must be unfastened, lengthened, or modified for safe and reliable operation. Check out other fender- or grille-mounted items for the same problems. Often, items that clear in a stock engine compartment will hit when they're raised a few inches with the body.
    Another steering-related body lift problem is the power steering hoses. If they're hooked
  • Mechanical clutch linkages need to be extended or new brackets installed, but make sure the working angles are the same as the stock design. Hydraulic clutch lines may need to be lengthened, as will brake lines that extend between the body and the frame.
    Mechanical clutch linkages need to be extended or new brackets installed, but make sure th
  • Minor body lifts usually don't cause problems with floor shifters, but the greater the lift involved, the larger the hole in the floor needs to be for proper shifting. Large lifts, as shown, need the shift sticks to be extended and a bigger boot and hole in the floorboards for the increased throw of the levers.
    Minor body lifts usually don't cause problems with floor shifters, but the greater the lif
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