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2012 Ultimate Adventure

2012 Ultimate Adventure

OJ: The Ultimate Orange Jeep Part 3

New Jeep Chopfest

By Fred Williams, Photography by Fred Williams

Every year Editor-in-Chief Rick Péwé leads us on a weeklong on- and off-road adventure through the craziest trails he can find in a random portion of the U.S., and every year we build something new and outrageous to lead the group with. A year ago we built a very cool fullsize 4x4 pickup to lead the Ultimate Adventure (“Ultimate F-150,” July ’11–Jan. ’12). It worked great, but if there was one thing that we would have changed it would have been the size. It had a huge wheelbase, and though capable, it wasn’t the best vehicle for weaving through tight trail obstacles. This year we decided a small two-door Jeep Wrangler would be our lead machine wherever Péwé decides to take us, and we’d build it to be nimble to twist around obstacles.

You saw the two-door ’12 Wrangler Rubicon being built in Toledo in the Aug. ’12 issue (“OJ the Ultimate Orange Jeep,” part 1) and then fixed up in Sept. ’12 with a Zone 4-inch suspension and 35-inch Nittos. This worked great for trail wheeling in Moab (“Moab Mecca,” Aug. ’12). It has lockers, GenRight aluminum fenders, and a Warn winch in a Synergy front bumper and easily could have passed tech inspection for the UA. The problem is it would look like every other Jeep on the trail, and we wanted something that would be twice as capable as a standard Jeep JK and somehow stand out from the crowd—a tall order indeed.

Our next step was hauling OJ to the Hazzard Fabworx shop near Spokane. Proprietor Luke Shuman and Employee of the Month (every month) Rocky Dorame listened to our most harebrained idea ever for an Ultimate Adventure build and signed on wholeheartedly. These guys make a living building everything from street-driven diesel trucks to desert-bombing, rock-racing buggies. They aren’t afraid of a challenge and were more than willing to help chop our Jeep in half with just 3,000 miles on the odometer.

Our little OJ is getting stretched, a fair bit of body modification too (as you’ll see), and most importantly the ability to steer front and rear. Our goal is a Jeep that can weave through trees and boulders like a snake while still cruising down the road like a Jeep just off the showroom floor.

  • The orange cat out of the bag. Call it whatever you want—pushme-pullme, clown car, wrong way, or just crazy. We originally called it a touring sedan but now like to think of it as a roadster. Why? Definition: “An open automobile having a seat in the front for two people and a rumble seat or luggage compartment in the back.”
    The orange cat out of the bag. Call it whatever you want—pushme-pullme, clown car, wrong w
  • The first step in building our new Off-Roadster was finding the rear section (what most would call the front section) of a Jeep Wrangler frame and body. We tracked down a “recycling center” with the appropriate parts, stuffed them all in a small trailer, and hauled them to Hazzard.
    The first step in building our new Off-Roadster was finding the rear section (what most wo
  • Adding rear steer for optimal maneuverability meant we would need a rear frame section narrower than stock so the tires wouldn’t rub the frame when turned. This led us to the idea of using a front section of frame under the rear of the Jeep, and from there the idea of grafting the front body section onto the back and hiding our spare Nitto tire under the rear hood. Plus, if one Jeep seven-slot grille is good, then two must be better. Step 1: Remove the rear axle.
    Adding rear steer for optimal maneuverability meant we would need a rear frame section nar
  • By pushing the seats back as far as possible and reclining them slightly we could mark a tape line where the front of the rear hood could not pass. Then we lined up the rear-front framerail to determine where the straight sections would intersect, where the grille would sit, and where the rear hood (decklid) would extend to.
    By pushing the seats back as far as possible and reclining them slightly we could mark a t
  • This was where Shuman started with the removal of unnecessary rear Jeep bodywork. With the fuel tank removed, the wiring pulled, and the tub cut, we quickly passed the point of no return.
    This was where Shuman started with the removal of unnecessary rear Jeep bodywork. With the
  • The rear portion of tub was lifted out of the way along with part of the rollcage. Then came more measuring to determine where the frame was getting chopped.
    The rear portion of tub was lifted out of the way along with part of the rollcage. Then ca
  • Finally, after careful consideration of the fuel tank, suspension, and how to adapt the front and rear body sections, the saw was fired up again. We measured twice, then did it about five more times, crossed our fingers, and started cutting.
    Finally, after careful consideration of the fuel tank, suspension, and how to adapt the fr
  • The rear frame section required extensive clearing off of old brackets, mounts, and tabs, which Dorame did. We would be reusing only a few stock frame parts, the coil buckets, and the front four (soon to be rear four) body mounts. Meanwhile Shuman cleared off any offending bits of the frame under the front of the tub.
    The rear frame section required extensive clearing off of old brackets, mounts, and tabs,
  • Using a sleeve inside the framerail sections and cutting both ends square we were able to very easily line up the new tail end of the frame. Our harebrained idea was long from finished, but a major hurdle had been cleared. It actually looked like it would come together smoothly.
    Using a sleeve inside the framerail sections and cutting both ends square we were able to
  • The front body of the Jeep Wrangler uses a complex structure underneath that the hood, grille, and fenders all attach to. It is made of laminated sheets of steel and specially formed box tubing. We had to cut down this structure to align with the tub, and this is not easy due to the various layers of metal that are welded and glued in place.
    The front body of the Jeep Wrangler uses a complex structure underneath that the hood, gri
  • Eventually we lined up the structure, fenders, and frame to get an idea of all the parts together. The wheelbase will get stretched to about 110 inches, but with rear steer and 40-inch Nitto tires we should still be very nimble.
    Eventually we lined up the structure, fenders, and frame to get an idea of all the parts t
  • While preparing the rear body section the Hazzard crew finished welding the frame section together and then plated over the seam inside and out, top and bottom, for additional strength.
    While preparing the rear body section the Hazzard crew finished welding the frame section
  • To protect the vital stuff we carry on the Ultimate Adventure, like photography gear, we opted for a rear bulkhead that would close in the cab somewhat. The trunk will be left open on the sides and bottom. A sheet of steel across the back and an eventual windjammer and bikini top will suffice should we encounter foul weather.
    To protect the vital stuff we carry on the Ultimate Adventure, like photography gear, we o
  • Below the bulkhead a tubular crossmember was built to support the frame splice and offer an attachment point for our rear suspension. The passenger-side frame was clearanced for the fuel tank too. The front suspension will remain the Zone 4-inch long-arm system, while the rear will be Zone components with some custom tuning to fit the new framerails and centered rear differential.
    Below the bulkhead a tubular crossmember was built to support the frame splice and offer a
  • Our next step is assembling a pair of Spidertrax Spider9 axles, something different from our previous UA builds. These axles have proven themselves in both desert and rock racing and are strong and light, and yet we’ve never seen them under a new Jeep Wrangler JK. Tune in next month when we show you how we built them and (hopefully) make them work with all the new Jeep computer systems.
    Our next step is assembling a pair of Spidertrax Spider9 axles, something different from o
SOURCES
Nitto Tire
6021 Katella Avenue
Suite 250
Cypress
CA  90630
877-565-8448
www.nittotire.com
Zone Offroad Products
888-998-ZONE
GenRight Off-Road
1816 Angus Avenue
Unit A
Simi Valley
CA  93063
805-584-8635
www.genright.com
Off Road Design
970-945-7777
offroaddesign.com/
Spidertrax Off-Road
7510 Hygiene Road
Longmont
CO  80503
800-286-0898
www.spidertrax.com
Synergy Suspension
870 Industrial Way
San Luis Obispo
CA  93401
1-805-242-0397
http://www.synergysuspension.com
Warn Industries
12900 S.E. Capps Road
Clackamas
OR  97015
800-910-1122
www.warn.com
Hazzard Fabworx
509-995-1176
Jeep
N/A
AK
877-426-5337
www.jeep.com
Off-Road Power Products
866-379-8685
http://www.offroadpowerproducts.
com
Bubba Rope
310 W Melody Lane
Casselberry
FL  32707
N/A
www.bubbarope.com
By Fred Williams
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Get Your Own DVD
Bubba Rope
Gen Right
Tires
Transfer Case
Power Products
Spidertrax
Synergy Suspension
Winch
Suspension
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